Type: Trad
FA: Roger and Bill Briggs, 1973
Page Views: 6,152 total · 28/month
Shared By: Joe Keyser on Jan 7, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

255 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details


This thin crack starts about 20 feet right of Rincon . The crack opens up periodically just about right for gear placements. The crux is pulling over a small roof with a reachy finger jam and no really good feet. Continue up on a nice finger crack.

To descend, traverse right to the tree and rap.


Wired nuts, TCUs, and a few larger cams.
Great pitch, good first 10a lead. Easier than P1 of Rincon, IMO. Jan 1, 2001
Patrick Vernon
Estes Park, CO
Patrick Vernon   Estes Park, CO
This is a short but very good climb, the protection is substanitially better than it appears from the base. Jan 1, 2001
Joe Keyser
Scottsdale, AZ
Joe Keyser   Scottsdale, AZ
I [definitely] agree that this is easier than pitch one of Rincon (9+). Took a sizable whipper on Rincon,,, suppose I should have picked a more warmup like warmup to climb first! Clean fall though, just quite large...oops! Aug 6, 2001
Casey Bernal
Wheat Ridge, CO
Casey Bernal   Wheat Ridge, CO
This is an excellent 1 pitch 5.10. Very fun technical moves. I led this one and felt it was easier that the p1 of Rincon, which I followed. Oh well, it is all good stuff. If you don't want detailed beta then skip the rest of this comment. You don't need any cams larger than a #3 Friend, and you really only need one of those. Otherwise nothing larger than a .75 Camalot. You will need a lot of smaller stuff, especially small nuts or RPs. For the section before the crux I had 3 small/tiny wires and a blue Alien, but at the crux you can hang off the finger lock and place an excellent cam above your head for the move. Sorry to spray beta but a first time 5.10 leader could get spooked and might end up testing the wire strength of the tiny nuts. Almost 3 stars if it was longer. Casey Bernal Apr 29, 2002
Just a suggestion, but this route, Racoon Soup, and five-eight crack all share the same anchor- an eight foot tall tree, six inches in diameter. This 'anchor' sees a lot of use, especially of the TR variety which is particularly hard on anchors. The tree can be backed up with a #1 Camalot or two in the crack behind, or by placing some nuts above Raccoon Soup or Five-ten crack. But even with the backup (and it seems many people don't even do this), the tree is still taking the weight in the vast majority of TR situations. A better solution would be to use a gear TR anchor, then rap off the tree when finished... no one ever does this though.

So I was curious what people thought about the idea of a nice, beefy two-bolt anchor somewhere on the ledge system to serve as anchor for these three climbs. Not to mention that this would probably save the poor tree lots of wear and tear. These are among the most travelled climbs in the Rincon/West Ridge area, and the tree will probably pull someday. Apr 21, 2003
Nice climb in a area of awesome rock. I don't know if anyone would want beta for pro at the crux. If so, you can place a yellow Alien once you get your feet up and reach over the small roof. Apr 27, 2004
Kenneth Noisewater
San Diego
Kenneth Noisewater   San Diego
Fantastic route!
Good movement, good passive gear, interesting crux.
It could use some chain anchors for the TR, since that part of Rincon is the easier craggin' section. If you go WAY right to the 5.8 anchors, it is awkward for multiple parties.
Who wants to pull the trigger on that? Sep 26, 2006
Alex Vidal
Boulder, CO
Alex Vidal   Boulder, CO
Generally I consider myself to be very good with creative Eldo gear, especially passive gear. However, I thought this one was a bit hard to protect... certainly adequate but definitely not without a bit of spice. 2-3 marginal RP placements and a "reasonable" 0 Mastercam protected the crux moves.

Based on the other people's posts, perhaps I am wrong? Aug 9, 2014

I remember this one being pretty well protected for 10a at Eldo, albeit with small gear. You have pretty decent stances, and you can place quite a few good small wires. Maybe go back up and do it again, you might be more relaxed and find more protection opportunities. Aug 11, 2014
D. Snyder
Golden, CO
D. Snyder   Golden, CO
This makes a very fine start to an excellent pitch, sustained at the grade, when paired with the Reveley-Hunter above. The gear is much better than it first appears. It's about a 170' pitch when done this way. The poison ivy in the crack system mid-way can be totally avoided by jogging to the right and clipping a long sling to the highest tree above "5.8 crack" and then moving back left. Mar 10, 2017