Type: Trad, Sport, 60 ft Fixed Hardware (1)
FA: Charlie Bently?
Page Views: 4,910 total · 35/month
Shared By: Taylor Roy on Apr 23, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Since the starting edges are about ten feet off the ground, most people have to stick clip the first piton, and then hoist up to the establishing holds to begin this route. Once on the wall, you immediately encounter a series of small crimps that lead you into the corner (V5/6). From here, clip another piton (use a runner), and traverse left along an obvious flake to a ring bolt. Gather your strength and then commit to the very shouldery repoint crux (V6/7). From here, work your way up the parallel, vertical, offset features (11-) placing safe, small gear (TCUs and nuts) about every 10 feet.

Although this climb looks intimidating, it is not a headpoint route. In terms of permanent protection, safety, and movement, it is nearer to sport climbing than trad climbing. With that said, this route still requires solid gear placement skills and deserves a lot of respect.

Location

This route starts in a large corner about 15 feet left of the Center Route. A 60 meter rope will easily get you down.

Protection

Quickdraws, a stick clip, and some small TCUs and nuts.

The anchor consists of two pitons with some webbing and carabiners. If you toprope this, you may want to back it up. This anchor can be easily reached by climbing the Center Route and then traversing left.

Photos

DB Cee
Chattanooga, TN
DB Cee   Chattanooga, TN
Opening boulder problem is worlds harder (for me) than the 2nd boulder problem. Awesome route, however. Mar 14, 2010
Dusty
Fort Collins
Dusty   Fort Collins
Hey, Blake, either I need your beta for the upper crux or you need my beta for the lower crux! That upper crux feels desperate, especially after the lower one. Mar 15, 2010
Ol Toby
CA
  5.13a
Ol Toby   CA
  5.13a
First crux is sharp and techy, second is blocky and powerful. The 5.11 climbing after the crux is tricky but solid.

Anchor has been updated and is solid. Apr 3, 2014
Corey Flynn   USA
Wondering if people really hoist up to the starting holds after stick clipping the pitons? Sounds like aid climbing to me. Starting off the rock stack is plenty reasonable. I´m 5´9 and know for a fact some shorter friends have still started this way. Maybe stack on another rock if you cant reach or you will be robbing yourself of a cool/tensiony start. Also start matched on the rail, starting on either of the sharp crimps is not doing the route. Oct 25, 2018