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Routes in West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu

A Cut Above T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Android Tilt T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
As We Liked It T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Bat, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Between the Cracks T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Blackout T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Born Under Punches T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Bushwack Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chock Suey T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Chockstone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cornerstone TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fade To Black T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Fading Light T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Friends in High Places T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ice Nine T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jeep T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Jericho T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Joke Crack to Superstone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Knight's Move T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Laughing at the Moon T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ministry of Fear T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Modern Defense T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b X
Muscular Dystrophy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Prince of Darkness T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Purple Haze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red House T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
S&M T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sirens of Titan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Speakeasy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Superstone T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sylvia's Bush T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tales of Ulysses T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tilt Right T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Whiplash T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,852 total, 9/month
Shared By: Tony B on Aug 2, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Whiplash is another one of the best winter climbs in Eldo if done from the top of Xanadu. The four-star rating is the overall rating for the two climbs put together. Xanadu is 4 stars on its own, and this is icing on that cake, a classic roof-crack finish that is safe and takes good gear. On its own, it is a 2 star climb, but it is too short to garner more on its own.

Protection

The pro solid and pleantiful. Take a set of 1-2.5" cams: a 1.5" (blue HB Quadcam) + one red Camalot will do the job if you are solid at the grade. Double up if you want to sew it up overhead as you climb. Gear can be placed overhead at any time.
boo
Estes Park
 
boo   Estes Park
 
The listing on this route is a little confusing. It's definitely a value added plus finish for Xanadu. From the Xanadu anchors, look up and left. You will see a wafer intersecting the headwall. From the Xanadu anchors, you are looking at the ride side of the wafer. The left side of the wafer is what is shown in the photos. The Levin guide rates either side as 5.10, with the left side slighter harder. Having done both now, like many cracks it is size-dependent. Technically the left might be harder, but the right side is short and burly. They are both very short, steep roof cracks. Beta? Be super careful getting into either of these cracks, as you can dislodge a LOT of loose rock on the ledge. There are people directly below you walking, eating. They won't see you up there, easily. These variations don't see traffic, so be mindful. Apr 3, 2017
As with others, I am a bit confused on which side of the block one climbs for this route. I took the right side of the block (not shown in Tony's photos) which was pretty much perfect hands on very steep rock. Sew it up with 1 each orange and red Metolius, 2 yellow C4s, and 1 blue C4 for the 20 feet of easy climbing after the roof to the anchors (optional). Fun, short climb.

The anchor is a 5 inch slung "tree," with a highly questionable root system, backed up to a bush. Not the worst I have seen in Eldo but not a long ways off from the bottom of the pile. Mar 13, 2016
Dpurf
Superior
  5.10-
Dpurf   Superior
  5.10-
I am with Kara N on which crack to climb. Tony, the one you are talking about is further to the right. The one Kara and I are talking about are 2-3 feet apart. So, I get to the base of the climb and there are 2 cracks. The left is thin hands and more of a layback. The one of the right hands and more of a roof and more interesting. Now it looks like all the photos are of the one on the left. So I guess I did the wrong climb. But it was fun. Great hands the whole 10 feet. I think I placed a #1 and just pulled through. I guess I have to go back and climb the one on the left. Oh and it was not real hard if you know how to jam. Nov 23, 2008
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
Whiplash is to the left--- with protection to 2.5."
The thing to the right is harder (5.12) and is caled Parlez-Vous Hangdog. I tried it once, and found that 'Oui, je parle hangdog.' Jul 31, 2006
Kara N  
My partner and I went up to scope out Whiplash recently, but we couldn't figure out which crack was the actual route. There are two cracks on either side of a 4-foot-wide block, and both had chalk on them. The route on the right is an overhanging crack that looks like wide hands, whereas the route on the left was less steep and looked better for small hands. Does Whiplash follow the crack on the right or the left of the block? Anyone have any info on the non-Whiplash route? Jul 29, 2006
Ben F
Benfield, Kolorado
Ben F   Benfield, Kolorado
The climb S&M (7) will put you more or less at the base of this exposed and protection-required fun boulder problem. Jun 10, 2003
This route is more like climbing a choss pile then a 3 star route.... The anchors are set in rubble, and it's a maybe 30 ft.... May 7, 2003
XOG
XOG  
Climbed this today. My partner Shigemichi was leading, and just before the crux after setting pro he grabbed the last big jug with both hands, I guess to rest. Anyway, it came off, I'd guess about a 25 pound football and he fell backwards and upside down, coming to a halt with his head 2-3 feet from a fin of rock. I yelled rock loudly. Fortunately the only people in the area were a party on Xanadu, which was enough to the right that they heard the rock but that was it. Even though we were there pretty early, I 'd say it was pretty unusual and very lucky that there weren't lots of people at the base. Anyway, be careful out there folks...and don't assume that routes are always going to be safe just because the pro is good! May 3, 2003
David Jones  
 
It's good while it lasts, but that's 10 feet. There is some serious star inflation/inconsistency on this site. Apr 21, 2003
Peter Spindloe
North Vancouver, BC
Peter Spindloe   North Vancouver, BC
Go do "Cruising for Bulgar" at SoBo Buttress and then decide if tape isn't useful in Eldo. Actually, I got a little scratched up on Whiplash, but that was more because I didn't reach far enough for a good jam, and tried to pull on a half-in thin hand jam. Mar 11, 2002
Tape in Eldo???? Feb 9, 2002
We climbed Xanadu, traversed through some very rotten rock, underneath Whiplash, then further left (NW), to a grassy gully type area where an aok belay was set up. Whiplash was very good though short, I felt no need for a double set of cams, easy to put in 4 cams in 10-20 feet, yellow Alien to Red Camalot, sewn up. Crack very sharp so tape up! We rapped off of a tree to another tree just SE and down from top of Xanadu. 2 raps total, one rope. Oct 29, 2001