Humdinger

This short but packed climb ascends the left side of the SE face in four (or 5) pitches of mostly 5.9 to 5.10+ climbing on sustained and solid rock. It's something I've been eyeballing for a couple summers now while working on a bigger NE Chief's Head project. This is a great shorter day route if you're in the area or just want to add another climb after finishing early on the main face. It starts right next to the descent. Also, in September, the wall stays in the sun longer than the main face - until about 3 pm.

Note: Rossiter's guidebook lists an unknown route on this face somewhere (Tom Thomas Memorial, 5.11), but nothing more is known about this possible route. A considerable amount of research, with those very familiar with the wall, has turned up nothing. It's possible that parts of this climb intersect with it (or had been done before), but all evidence points towards this being a first ascent. What we found was surprisingly steeper and harder climbing than expected on this side of the wall. It is definitely more sustained than some of the trade routes like the East Prow and The Barb.

P1. "The Slab Pitch". Climb a series of mossy cracks (and easy face) that run up the low angle slab - they are cleaner than they appear. There is an option to start higher to the left and traverse in, avoiding the lower finger crack. The grade is about the same. From the moss pad ledge at the top of the cracks, clip a high bolt, then traverse straight left to a stance. The slab steepens here. Climb the very thin slab straight up to the second bolt then good right-trending flakes. Note: the second bolt is a bit hard to clip due to the thin slab crux. Continue up and right past a small cam to the base of the dihedral. You might want to have your slab climbing partner lead this pitch! Gear: up to a #3 Camalot possible in the initial cracks (more options now that it’s been cleaned), 2 bolts, and a small cam (~ #1 or #2 TCU) above the 2nd bolt. Save a # 2 and a #3 Camalot for the belay, 5.10+/11-, ~ 180’.

P2. The Flake Pitch. A traverse left past a couple of chockstones gets you to an awkward move around the point and into the dihedral. Once established, this is a nice long pitch of quality liebacking and stemming on knobs. See picture titled "P2 Corner". Belay on a small ledge at the very top of the dihedral. Gear: a full rack of stoppers and cams. Stoppers and finger-size cams are good at the belay, 5.9, ~150’.

P3. Climb the very short finger crack and knobby face to a small ledge below a right-facing dihedral. Lieback it to a series of ledges. It takes cams from #0.75 to # 3 Camalot. It's best to belay on the middle ledges and do the short stretch above as another “pitch” in order to keep a close eye on the leader at the bolt. ~5.8

P4. Climb straight up over ledges to a shallow #0.75 Camalot below the bolt. From the jug, clip the bolt, and make a bouldery, 5.10ish move to gain the ledge. Note: the original line zig-zagged way left then back right to the same belay ledge, ~ 5.10 (one move wonder).

P5. The Money Pitch. Climb the amazing (and exposed) dihedral/ramp to its end, then step right to a jug and mantel up (a #1 or #2 Camalot is helpful). Step right again, follow the short dihedral to a ledge just below the top, and belay (large stoppers are useful). Gear: a full rack with doubles up to #1, a healthy set of stoppers, and a few extra slings for the traverse at the end. This is an excellent pitch that will get better with traffic, 5.10+/11?, ~110'.

It is the leftmost route on the main SE face (Border Patrol starts around the corner to the left).

See the description above. A full rack with doubles up to #1, cams to a #3, a #1 or #2 TCU, a healthy set of stoppers, and a few extra slings.