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Routes in Spearhead

Age Axe T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
All Two Obvious T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Barb, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Prow T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
North Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Obviously Four Believers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Prowess T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Spear Me the Details T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Spearhead, Chiefshead, Pagoda, Long's Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stone Monkey T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Syke's Sickle T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ten Essentials, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Stoners T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Type: Trad, Alpine, 850 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: Nichols, 1980s
Page Views: 511 total, 18/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Aug 2, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

P1. (220 feet, 5.7/5.4R) Start on some low angle slabs and traverse up and right. Finish on a 5.7 finger crack. Belay at some old bolts, or simul-climb to the base of the next pitch.

P2. (60 feet, 5.10d/11a) This is historically rated 5.10c. Locate a thin crack shooting up the slab that joins a left-facing roof/dihedral. The crux is at the 10-12 foot level where you have to fiddle in small gear from a marginal stance. An extra yellow and gray Alien will sew up the upper finger crack. Your lieback and gear placement skills will be tested on this pitch. Belay on the right side of the ledge.

P3. (130 feet, 5.9) Join the All Two Obvious finger crack to the right (recommended) or climb 5.8 flakes on the left. Belay near a set of old rap bolts on a ledge.

P4. (180 feet, 5.6R) This is the only bad pitch on the route. Follow the left-leaning, right-facing flake system to a fun runout slab. Aim for a left-facing dihedral that accesses a comfy, hanging, grass covered ledge. Grass mantels and loose flakes are included....

P5. (120 feet, 5.9-/5.6R) This is a wild pitch for the grade. Head right for 50 feet linking left-facing dihedrals together to a roof. Pull the right side of the roof to a great handcrack. Belay at two 50 year old 1/4 inch bolts, which can be backed up (#3 & small hex).

P6. (60 feet, 5.11a/b PG13) This is a memorable pitch shared with Obviously Four Believers, since success and safety are not guaranteed. Clip a somewhat upgraded 1/4 inch bolt (back it up!), and figure out a way to the undercling traverse and 2nd 1/4 inch bolt. Place a #2 cam to protect your follower before the 2nd bolt! Continue the traverse left (5.10) until you can turn the corner and gain a ledge.

P7. (120 feet, 5.9 or 5.10c) Either climb the great 5.9+ finish of the East Prow or the 5.10c finish on Age Axe which is on the far left side of the ledge.

Location

Start on the slabs on the far left shoulder....

Protection

1 set from tiny to #3, doubles from gray Alien to #1, RPs, optional 2nd #2 and #4 Friends.

Photos

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