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Elevation: 12,642 ft
GPS: 40.2683, -105.65
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 82,504 total · 305/month
Shared By: Kurt Johnson on Dec 22, 2001 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: Closures DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Arrowhead is the name given to a collection of spires in the Spearhead Cirque attached to McHenry's via its northeast ridge, directly above Black Lake. Up until a few years ago not many routes had been put up here, probably due to the long approach and relatively short climbs (most are 4 to 5 pitches in length). Recently, however, the abundance of clean, aesthetic lines compacted into a relatively small area has drawn droves of first-ascentionists looking for virgin rock in an otherwise mostly climbed-out Park. The rock here is quality granite, and if the entire formation were picked up and moved to a place like Lumpy Ridge there would already be 100 named routes on it.

Getting There Suggest change

To get there, park or take the shuttle to the Glacier Gorge lot and follow the trail that goes to Black Lake via Mills Lake. Once at the lake, skirt around the right side and scramble up directly underneath the long prominent fracture which leads straight upslope to the base of Arrowhead. Once at the beginning of the fracture, work your way diagonally left up grassy ledges until you're up in the cirque near the base of the rock. From here, you can either head up and left to access routes along the ridge connecting Arrowhead to McHenry's, or scramble up and right for the routes above Black Lake. You can also head up the left side of Black Lake as if you're going to Spearhead, but it's farther and takes more time. For routes on the far right side of Arrowhead, bushwack up and right from Black Lake.

25 Total Climbs

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Location: Arrowhead Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Arrowhead

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 22
Glacier Gorge Traverse
Trad, Alpine
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 10
Rain Dance
Trad, Alpine
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
Warhead
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 6
Artemis
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 19
Ripsaw/Northeast Ridge
Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 55
Arrowplane
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
 5
The Godfather
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 25
Airhead
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 16
Ithaca
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Glacier Gorge Traverse
 22
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine
Rain Dance
 10
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine
Warhead
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Artemis
 6
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Ripsaw/Northeast Ridge
 19
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
Arrowplane
 55
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
The Godfather
 5
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Airhead
 25
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Ithaca
 16
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Arrowhead »

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