Elevation: 12,642 ft
GPS: 40.268, -105.65 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 62,633 total · 274/month
Shared By: Kurt Johnson on Dec 22, 2001 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Arrowhead is the name given to a collection of spires in the Spearhead Cirque attached to McHenry's via its northeast ridge, directly above Black Lake. Up until a few years ago not many routes had been put up here, probably due to the long approach and relatively short climbs (most are 4 to 5 pitches in length). Recently, however, the abundance of clean, aesthetic lines compacted into a relatively small area has drawn droves of first-ascentionists looking for virgin rock in an otherwise mostly climbed-out Park. The rock here is quality granite, and if the entire formation were picked up and moved to a place like Lumpy Ridge there would already be 100 named routes on it.

Getting There

To get there, park or take the shuttle to the Glacier Gorge lot and follow the trail that goes to Black Lake via Mills Lake. Once at the lake, skirt around the right side and scramble up directly underneath the long prominent fracture which leads straight upslope to the base of Arrowhead. Once at the beginning of the fracture, work your way diagonally left up grassy ledges until you're up in the cirque near the base of the rock. From here, you can either head up and left to access routes along the ridge connecting Arrowhead to McHenry's, or scramble up and right for the routes above Black Lake. You can also head up the left side of Black Lake as if you're going to Spearhead, but it's farther and takes more time. For routes on the far right side of Arrowhead, bushwack up and right from Black Lake.

25 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Arrowhead Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Arrowhead

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 4
East Face/Arrowhead
Trad, Alpine
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 20
Glacier Gorge Traverse
Trad, Alpine
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
Rain Dance
Trad, Alpine
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
Artemis
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
Warhead
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 17
Ripsaw/Northeast Ridge
Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 39
Arrowplane
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 13
Ithaca
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 18
Airhead
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
East Face/Arrowhead
 4
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, Alpine
Glacier Gorge Traverse
 20
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine
Rain Dance
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine
Artemis
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Warhead
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Ripsaw/Northeast Ridge
 17
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
Arrowplane
 39
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Ithaca
 13
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Airhead
 18
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Arrowhead »

Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos