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Routes in Arrowhead

Airhead T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Arrowplane T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Artemis T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bequeathed T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
East Face/Arrowhead T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Full Metal Jacket T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gimme Shelter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Glacier Gorge Traverse T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Godfather, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Ithaca T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Lost Arrowhead T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Rain Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ramp Tramp T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Refugium T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ripsaw/Northeast Ridge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shaft, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shoshone T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sidewinder T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sloppy Seconds T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
South Ramp T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Thai Hot T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c C1 R
V-Free T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Warhead T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Watership Down T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Alpine, Grade II
FA: Charlie Ehlert, Philip Ritterbush, Charles and Prentiss Sawyer, 1957
Page Views: 1,299 total · 7/month
Shared By: paco on Jul 31, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Seasonal Closures Details


The only reason I'm giving The Shaft a star and the only reason for climbing it is because of the access it provides to McHenry's NE Ridge. Although, despite a few large loose blocks, The Shaft does have some nice rock and better views on the way up.

The Shaft is the furthest left (SW) route on Arrowhead. Approach the same way you would for other Arrowhead routes, but continue past all the routes until youre underneath the lowest point of the ridge connecting Arrowhead and Mchenry's.

Traverse up right on grassy ledges, and make a nice traverse on good rock to a right-leaning ramp. From there, follow the crack system to the top taking a left at the final short headwall.

The view from here is super cool so soak it up before continuing up McHenry's NE Ridge.


A standard rack to #3 Camalot.


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Legs Magillicutty   Durango
I ended up in a chully (bigger than a chimney. . .smaller than a gully) on the last pitch. I may have missed the route entirely and climbed something else. Is the last pitch supposed to be a chimney? Maybe I should have traversed right?

Just a note, we found 1 rap station from the ridge. To locate it, travel towards Arrowhead summit for approximately 50 yards. You will see a bunch of slings wedged in between a big boulder and the peak. The rap to the next station was approximately 60m.

The next rap station consisted of a slung boulder with a biner and a quick link. It is over 70m to get down to the ground but the downclimb is easy, maybe 4th class.

You can descend via the South Ramp but then you'd have to hike back to your pack. Not really a big deal but if you want to avoid carrying stuff, you can rap down just right of where you begin the route. Aug 31, 2007