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Routes in Arrowhead

Airhead T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Arrowplane T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Artemis T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bequeathed T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
East Face/Arrowhead T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Full Metal Jacket T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gimme Shelter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Glacier Gorge Traverse T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Godfather, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Ithaca T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Lost Arrowhead T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Rain Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ramp Tramp T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Refugium T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ripsaw/Northeast Ridge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shaft, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shoshone T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sidewinder T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sloppy Seconds T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
South Ramp T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Thai Hot T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c C1 R
V-Free T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Warhead T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Watership Down T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1300 ft, 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: Richard Rossiter and Joan Johns
Page Views: 3,918 total, 35/month
Shared By: Richard Rossiter on Aug 16, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route ascends the complete northeast ridge from the shoulder above Solitude Lake to the summit of Arrowhead and is joined by the last several hundred feet of the old East Face route. It is reminiscent of the CMC Route on Mount Moran, but is 4 thousand feet shorter and 4 grades harder. Expect some snow on the approach and descent until July.

P1. Climb a beautiful slab and belay up and right on a good ledge with a poor anchor (8, 180 feet) or go 15 feet higher and belay at a poor stance with a good anchor.

P2. Work up and left to a big sloping ledge beneath a steep wall with a conspicuous finger crack (4, 70 feet).

P3. Climb the excellent finger crack to a sort of notch, then go straight up to the top of the pinnacle (First Tower) and belay (10a, 150 feet).

P4. Downclimb 50 feet from the west side of the ledge into a notch (class 4, could belay), then climb 60 feet to a ledge at the base of a perfect hand crack (7, 110 feet).

P5. Climb the hand crack to a step in the ridge, then climb a finger crack to another pinnacle (8, 120 feet).

P6. Scramble to the top of a final pinnacle and rappel 80 feet to a big notch in the northeast ridge. One can escape the ridge at this point by descending a steep gully to the southeast (East Gully, Class 4).

P7. Scramble through some blocky terrain and belay where the angle increases, even with Ledge 1 (Class 4, 180 feet).

P8. Climb the exposed arete on the left to where the angle eases and belay (6, 200 feet). Scramble west quite a long way (staying right of the crest) to the true summit of Arrowhead.

Descend the South Ramp.

Location

Approach: Hike the Solitude Lake Trail to Shelf Lake and Solitude Lake and hike talus to a high point on the shoulder of the northeast ridge. Consider roping up here.

Protection

Bring stoppers and cams up 3 inches and slings for the odd this and that.
doug haller
Boulder, Colorado
 
doug haller   Boulder, Colorado
 
What to know before you go:
There's probably 3 pitches of belayed climbing, P1-2, P3, and P4-5.
Plan on a good 30 minutes from the end of the route to the rap station, assuming you can find it.
To find the rap (the one we used), look beneath any of several rocks that jut out over the lip of the ridge between Arrowhead and McHenry's. Start looking uphill (east) of the low point.
Good luck! Aug 24, 2015
T Bauck  
Good climb. You will not have to fight the crowds on this one.

On the 3rd pitch, about 25' up, you can traverse left 6' into another crack. This keeps this pitch about 5.8+. Aug 24, 2015
Greg Sievers
Bozeman, MT
Greg Sievers   Bozeman, MT
I agree with all the comments that this is a really fun route. Reasonably easy climbing which makes for a fast ascent. The steps/ledges/gendarmes from the top of P3 to the top of P5 go quickly, but I didn't realize that there was such a large horizontal factor to it. Lots of easy bouldering to get over to the 5.7 hand crack.
BTW:
1. Pitches 1 & 2 can be combined.
2. Pitches 4 & 5 can be combined.
3. The rap slings for the 80' drop into the notch will need to be replaced following 2012.
4. The 7th 'pitch' is real 4th class, like Canadian style. We climbed it unroped, but it is rather serious terrain.

Kudos, Richard. Aug 27, 2012
This makes a great start to the Shelf Cirque Traverse. Sep 3, 2011
Shane Zentner
Colorado
Shane Zentner   Colorado
Descending the north face is tricky and dangerous due to the many cliffs and slabs that are present, especially during an afternoon thunderstorm. To descend the north face, look for a series of cairns NW of the true summit. These will eventually take you to a break in the cliffs and into a gulley system. Look for rap anchors in the gully, however, these are difficult to find(we got lucky). Perhaps a better descent alternative is to take the south ramp exit.

That said, The NE Ridge is a great climb with tremendous exposure on both sides. The rap anchor on the sixth pitch should be backed up if possible due to the nature of the anchor(this was scary). The third pitch is amazing. Ripsaw is well worth the hike in, although we never found the Solitude Lake trail until we hiked down it in daylight.

Much appreciated, Richard. This is a true alpine experience. Aug 23, 2011
xxxxxxx  
Fun climbing, beautiful views, and a good summit make this route worth the hike up to Shelf Lake. Aug 28, 2010
Climbed this route July 31. Highly recommend this as a fun alpine outing. Good rock, great position and beautiful views. With a 70 meter rope, the route can be done in 4 1/2 pitches. Don't miss the final arete pitch - easy and wonderful.
Recommend leaving packs at base of Solitude trail and returning via Black Lake. We left ours at Solitude and took a while circumnavigating Arrowhead. Make sure you drop all the way down to top of approach gully from Black Lake before heading east across talus. We spent lots of time getting cliffed. Lots of other route possibilities in the vicinity. Thanks, Richard - good find. Aug 3, 2009
Pebby Johns
Boulder, Colorado
 
Pebby Johns   Boulder, Colorado
 
I must say that the crack lover climber in me found the crack on pitch #5 to be worth all the blood and sweat put out on the approach. It was just over too soon. The exposure on this climb was exhilarating. The weather was on our side, and it was a dream come true.
Thank you, Richard for your superb guidance and encouragement as always,
Pebby Aug 16, 2008