Type: Trad, Alpine, 1300 ft (394 m), 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: Richard Rossiter and Joan Johns
Page Views: 6,230 total · 32/month
Shared By: Richard Rossiter on Aug 16, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This route ascends the complete northeast ridge from the shoulder above Solitude Lake to the summit of Arrowhead and is joined by the last several hundred feet of the old East Face route. It is reminiscent of the CMC Route on Mount Moran, but is 4 thousand feet shorter and 4 grades harder. Expect some snow on the approach and descent until July.

P1. Climb a beautiful slab and belay up and right on a good ledge with a poor anchor (8, 180 feet) or go 15 feet higher and belay at a poor stance with a good anchor.

P2. Work up and left to a big sloping ledge beneath a steep wall with a conspicuous finger crack (4, 70 feet).

P3. Climb the excellent finger crack to a sort of notch, then go straight up to the top of the pinnacle (First Tower) and belay (10a, 150 feet).

P4. Downclimb 50 feet from the west side of the ledge into a notch (class 4, could belay), then climb 60 feet to a ledge at the base of a perfect hand crack (7, 110 feet).

P5. Climb the hand crack to a step in the ridge, then climb a finger crack to another pinnacle (8, 120 feet).

P6. Scramble to the top of a final pinnacle and rappel 80 feet to a big notch in the northeast ridge. One can escape the ridge at this point by descending a steep gully to the southeast (East Gully, Class 4).

P7. Scramble through some blocky terrain and belay where the angle increases, even with Ledge 1 (Class 4, 180 feet).

P8. Climb the exposed arete on the left to where the angle eases and belay (6, 200 feet). Scramble west quite a long way (staying right of the crest) to the true summit of Arrowhead.

Descend the South Ramp.

Location Suggest change

Approach: Hike the Solitude Lake Trail to Shelf Lake and Solitude Lake and hike talus to a high point on the shoulder of the northeast ridge. Consider roping up here.

Protection Suggest change

Bring stoppers and cams up 3 inches and slings for the odd this and that.