Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Routes in Arrowhead
|Airhead T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Arrowplane T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Artemis T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Bequeathed T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R|
|East Face/Arrowhead T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Full Metal Jacket T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Gimme Shelter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Glacier Gorge Traverse T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Godfather, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13|
|Ithaca T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Lost Arrowhead T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13|
|Rain Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Ramp Tramp T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Refugium T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Ripsaw/Northeast Ridge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Shaft, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Shoshone T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Sidewinder T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Sloppy Seconds T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R|
|South Ramp T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Thai Hot T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c C1 R|
|V-Free T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Warhead T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Watership Down T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Don Bushey, Andy Donson ?|
|Page Views:||86 total, 0/month|
|Shared By:||Andy Donson on Sep 9, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionA surprisingly easy route up what appears to be the steepest part of the cliff. The rock is immaculate.
Approach: Start about 200ft up the easy slabs at the base of Arrowhead's South Face (4th class) on the right end of a long terrace. This point is about 100ft left of the right margin of the apron, between the routes Medusa and Refugium.
1. 190ft 5.8s Climb a shallow, left-facing diheral rightwards up the slab, follow a shallow, right-leaning ramp, then zig-zag up the obvious shallow corners. Pull over an overlap to reach a sloping ledge, beneath the obvious weakness in the roofs above.
2. 200ft 5.9 A flared chimney leads to a steep, left-facing dihedral which breaches the overhang (crux). Above the steepness, follow a huge left trending ramp with finger cracks and excellent exposure until you run out of rope. There is a ledge here with a fixed hex.
3. 190ft 5.9 Continue up the steepening ramp until a broken area is reached. Belay above this at the base of a steep chimney on the left.
4. 150ft 5.8 Climb the chimney, pass the huge chockstone and enter a stellar, right-facing corner with hands. Follow this to an obvious ledge on the left.
5. 150ft 5.8 Climb the chimney and then up into a shallow, right-facing corner (hands and fists). Where this ends, follow an exposed flake system leftwards to the top.
The descent is either by summiting Arrowhead and dropping down into the 4th class descent terrace system, or faster, by hiking west to the low point of the ridge and rapping.
This route, or a similar line, has been climbed previously by an unknown party, who left the fixed hex described on pitch 2. Anybody out there have any info?
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