Full Metal Jacket
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Routes in Arrowhead
|Airhead T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Arrowplane T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Artemis T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Bequeathed T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R|
|East Face/Arrowhead T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Full Metal Jacket T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Gimme Shelter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Glacier Gorge Traverse T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Godfather, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13|
|Ithaca T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Lost Arrowhead T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13|
|Rain Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Ramp Tramp T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Refugium T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Ripsaw/Northeast Ridge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Shaft, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Shoshone T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Sidewinder T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Sloppy Seconds T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R|
|South Ramp T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Thai Hot T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c C1 R|
|V-Free T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Warhead T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Watership Down T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 320 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Richard Rossiter, rope solo, September 2007|
|Page Views:||2,783 total, 22/month|
|Shared By:||Richard Rossiter on Sep 11, 2007|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionBegin from Ledge 1 about 10 feet right of the Inside East Buttress route.
1a. Climb the crack on the right and bridge up through a slot into the main crack (a short squeeze chimney at first). Jam fists and hands to a good stance behind the Bullet (10a, 80 feet).
1b. Climb a wide crack on the left as for Inside East Buttress, then work up and right to the top of a pinnacle (the Bullet) in the main crack (10a, 80 feet).
2. Continue in the same crack (mostly hands) into an awesome overhanging wide crack (crux, up to 12 inches). Bridge and jam to a fantastic stance on the right (can belay here). Jam a final hand crack (9) to Ledge 2 (10c, 100 feet in all). Move the belay to a slot beneath an obvious, left-facing dihedral.
3. Bridge up the slot then jam and stem the dihedral to Ledge 3 near the top of the East Buttress (10a, 100 feet).
Rappel the route from slings around boulders or escape north and west over the top of the East Buttress (Point 12387) and scramble to a junction with the South Ramp.
LocationHike and scramble directly up from Black Lake and gain the big alcove between Arrowhead Spire and the East Buttress of Arrowhead. FMJ ascends the south face of the East Buttress about 10 feet right of Tommy Caldwell's recent climb (Inside East Buttress). It is also possible to follow Ledge 1 north all the way from the southeast shoulder of Arrowhead to the big alcove.
ProtectionStandard alpine rack from 0.25 inch to 5 inches plus several slings for chockstones and chicken heads. Bring a double length sling to belay at the Bullet.
Rappel anchors are in place (slings with rings) at Ledge 2 and Ledge 3. These slings were likely eaten by marmots within a year, so plan on leaving new slings. The voracious buggers probably packed off with the rings too.