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Routes in Arrowhead

Airhead T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Arrowplane T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Artemis T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bequeathed T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
East Face/Arrowhead T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Full Metal Jacket T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gimme Shelter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Glacier Gorge Traverse T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Godfather, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Ithaca T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Lost Arrowhead T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Rain Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ramp Tramp T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Refugium T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ripsaw/Northeast Ridge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shaft, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shoshone T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sidewinder T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sloppy Seconds T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
South Ramp T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Thai Hot T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c C1 R
V-Free T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Warhead T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Watership Down T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Alpine, Grade III
FA: Jon Allen and Doug Byerly
Page Views: 1,150 total, 6/month
Shared By: paco on May 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Refugium was one of the "new" routes to be put up on Arrowhead in the last few years. Although this route has some nice pitches. I'd strongly disagree with the three stars this route received in the new Gillett guide.

If you come to do this route, make sure you do another route in the same day. This is the only way I could justify the somewhat epic approach. We did Refugium, ran half way down the Summit Ramp and then did Rain Dance starting at its quality pitches.

Much of Refugium's lower half is broken with ramps and ledges. Simul climbing works for you, cruise the first three pitches in one to the base of the 1st 5.8 pitch. From there, you can link the last three pitches in two with a 60m rope. The last three (or two w/60m rope) pitches are the best pitches of the route.

While it's certainly not a three star route. You will be rewarded with over all good rock and some long lost solitude.

Protection

Standard high peak rack up to #4 Camalot. Maybe doubles of #2 and #3 Camalots for the 1st 5.8 pitch.

Photos

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Ross Swanson
Pinewood Springs
 
Ross Swanson   Pinewood Springs
 
19Jul'03 Yes, I agree it had 1.5 pitches of good climbing the rest was a walk-up. Do one of the routes to the west was a recommendation I got.--Ross Jul 23, 2003