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Routes in Arrowhead

Airhead T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Arrowplane T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Artemis T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bequeathed T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
East Face/Arrowhead T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Full Metal Jacket T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gimme Shelter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Glacier Gorge Traverse T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Godfather, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Ithaca T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Lost Arrowhead T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Rain Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ramp Tramp T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Refugium T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ripsaw/Northeast Ridge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shaft, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shoshone T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sidewinder T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sloppy Seconds T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
South Ramp T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Thai Hot T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c C1 R
V-Free T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Warhead T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Watership Down T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Aid, Alpine, 280 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Dakota Walz & Jesse Gross, 7/17
Page Views: 147 total, 27/month
Shared By: Dakota from North Dakota on Jul 3, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route shoots directly for the large jagged roof above ledge 2. It proved to be even tougher than it looks. Most of the moves linked well and were there, but in the end, we aided through about a body length. The FFA should go around upper 5.12 with a bit more alpine gusto.

Not an instant classic, but given the spice level and the involved approach to the East Butt of Arrowhead, I'd say the adventure factor is 4 star for sure.

Approach
From Black Lake, head straight up to East Buttress of Arrowhead over "involved" terrain.

P1. Start up the flaky, left-facing corner until reaching a ledge. Traverse right for 6 feet using great hand jams, and climb straight up the wide 4" crack. Belay at a small ledge, or battle rope drag up to Ledge 2, (5.9, 35m).

P2. Chimney up to a slabby finger crack with great locks and gear. Belay at Ledge 2, (5.7, 10m).

P3. The roof pitch. Stem up between the wall and the giant, leaning, detached columns with little to no gear. This is very spicy. After reaching the mini-roof, escape from the corner and onto the column to the right. Climb through the meat of the jagged roof via the rightmost crack using reachy hand jams, cramped smearing, underclings, and inspiring gear for about 12 feet (crux). Pull the lip as the crack widens to #3 until it tapers again to twin tight hands. Stop above the roof for a stance belay to avoid rope drag, (5.10R C1, 15m).

P4. Follow the rad, twin, over-vertical finger cracks to a small ledge. Sidestep to the rightmost crack around the corner, and layback up to the slab. Follow the wide, leaning crack to the summit, (5.11-, 25m).

DESCENT. Either rap Full Metal Jacket, or hike over the top of the East Buttress to the North West and scramble down to the South Ramp.

Location

The route begins in a crumbly, left-facing corner at the far (climber's) left end of the East Buttress of Arrowhead.

Protection

Single rack to #4, doubles in fingers and #0.75-2, and a 70m rope (for the rap descent).

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