Avg: 3 from 5 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 800 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Bernard Gillett & John Gillett, 2003, TR BG, 2000.|
|Page Views:||548 total · 4/month|
|Shared By:||David A. Turner on Aug 22, 2008|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
Pitch 1: Climb the first pitch of Arrowplane. Good beta I got for finding this pitch was to look for a shallow dihedral left of the prominent water streak. 5.8+ R; 180'.
Pitch 2: Climb the second pitch of Arrowplane. 5.9-; 150'.
Pitch 3: Start up the third pitch of Arrowplane. After the undercling, head up left to the prominent, right-facing dihedrals. Start up the rightmost dihedral, and then step into the left dihedral to its top. Step left again into cracks leading to a large ledge. 5.9+; 195'.
Pitch 4: Climb the crack to the right of the ledge, which peters out to face climbing protected by two bolts to a two bolt anchor (slightly sporty). 5.11a; 100'
Pitch 5: Climb the traversing tips crack (5.11a/b, good gear) to the continuous, flaring hand crack (solid 5.10). At its end, continue up to the overhangs. Climb the first, smaller overhang on its right side, hand traverse the second larger overhang to its left end, and then climb back right to the top of the wall (5.8+ R). 160'.
An obvious landmark for the route is the "J Crack" of the last pitch. It is easy to spot, waaay up high on a golden granite shield of rock.
Descend the South Ramp.
Although this route has some R climbing on it, if you are competent for the crux pitches the runouts will feel PG-13. However, as always, exercise good judgment.