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Routes in Arrowhead

Airhead T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Arrowplane T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Artemis T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bequeathed T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
East Face/Arrowhead T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Full Metal Jacket T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gimme Shelter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Glacier Gorge Traverse T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Godfather, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Ithaca T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Lost Arrowhead T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Rain Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ramp Tramp T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Refugium T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ripsaw/Northeast Ridge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shaft, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shoshone T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sidewinder T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sloppy Seconds T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
South Ramp T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Thai Hot T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c C1 R
V-Free T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Warhead T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Watership Down T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Alpine, 400 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: R. Rossiter solo or Unknown
Page Views: 112 total, 1/month
Shared By: Richard Rossiter on Aug 15, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This "mountaineer's route" is probably the easiest way to climb from the alcove between Arrowhead Spire and the East Buttress to the crest of the Northeast Ridge. Begin up and left from the big ledge that runs beneath the Rorschach face on the East Buttress. The main feature is a 180 foot V-slot that runs the entire height between what could be called Ledge One and Ledge Two. A second "pitch" goes straight up, then left up an easy ramp to the crest of the Northeast Ridge. This is a good scrambler's route to the summit of Arrowhead, though most scramblers will want to rope up for the V-Slot and most of the second pitch.

Location

Take the usual approach from Black Lake and gain the alcove between Arrowhead Spire and the East Buttress as descriped in previous guide books. There are two good ways to reach this point.

From the summit of Arrowhead, the easiest way down is the South Ramp aka Summit Ramp.

Protection

The entire thing is a no-pro scramble except for the V-Slot, which is a real pitch. Bring gear up to 4 inches and forget the thin stuff.

Photos

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