Avg: 3.5 from 11 votes
Routes in Arrowhead
|Airhead T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Arrowplane T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Artemis T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Bequeathed T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R|
|East Face/Arrowhead T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Full Metal Jacket T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Gimme Shelter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Glacier Gorge Traverse T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Godfather, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13|
|Ithaca T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Lost Arrowhead T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13|
|Rain Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Ramp Tramp T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Refugium T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Ripsaw/Northeast Ridge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Shaft, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Shoshone T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Sidewinder T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Sloppy Seconds T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R|
|South Ramp T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Thai Hot T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c C1 R|
|V-Free T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Warhead T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Watership Down T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 800 ft, 6 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||Andy Donson and Dave Light 1997|
|Page Views:||5,920 total, 38/month|
|Shared By:||justin dubois on Dec 31, 2004|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionIthaca climbs the huge arching corner system just right of the plumbline of Airhead (5.11d) and a bit left of Warhead. Start off a long ledge system reached after some easy scrambling.
Pitch 1: Climb straight up the beautiful slab below the arch with no gear but good holds. Belay in some ledgy stuff below a nice clean right facing corner. Delightful 5.8X, 160feet.
Pitch 2: Climb the [L-facing] corner to a nice stance below a left angling roof/arch. Excellent. 5.11a, 75feet.
Pitch 3: The crux. Climb out left with underclings under the roof, but nada for feet. Very similar to The Adventures of B-Dog on the Book. A fixed wire helps protect it. The climbing eases after about 20 feet. Climb out left to a corner and up to a little stance. Wicked. 5.12a, 100 feet.
Pitch 4: Climb the hanging corner above. Tricky to protect but safe. Brilliant. 5.11, 100feet.
Pitch 5: More of the same. straight up more thin corner till it ends. Climb up steep flakes above, belay below a big wedged flake. Nifty. 5.11, 125 feet.
Pitch 6: Step up and climb onto the huge flake.Negotiate a spicy section of 5.10. Continue up through the very imposing roof above with a delightfully juggy finish. Mind-bending. 5.11, 150 feet.
To descend, walk east down the summit ramp or bring two ropes and rap from the saddle between Mchenry's and Arrowhead. It's possible to link pitches on this badboy, but the climbing is hard, and when Andy says to stop, y'all better stop. All in all, one of the finest routes I've climbed in the Park. Enjoy.