Type: Trad, Alpine, 800 ft (242 m), 6 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Andy Donson and Dave Light 1997
Page Views: 8,197 total · 35/month
Shared By: justin dubois on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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16 Opinions
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Description Suggest change

Ithaca climbs the huge arching corner system just right of the plumbline of Airhead (5.11d) and a bit left of Warhead. Start off a long ledge system reached after some easy scrambling.

Pitch 1: Climb straight up the beautiful slab below the arch with no gear but good holds. Belay in some ledgy stuff below a nice clean right facing corner. Delightful 5.8X, 160feet.

Pitch 2: Climb the [L-facing] corner to a nice stance below a left angling roof/arch. Excellent. 5.11a, 75feet.

Pitch 3: The crux. Climb out left with underclings under the roof, but nada for feet. Very similar to The Adventures of B-Dog on the Book. A fixed wire helps protect it. The climbing eases after about 20 feet. Climb out left to a corner and up to a little stance. Wicked. 5.12a, 100 feet.

Pitch 4: Climb the hanging corner above. Tricky to protect but safe. Brilliant. 5.11, 100feet.

Pitch 5: More of the same. straight up more thin corner till it ends. Climb up steep flakes above, belay below a big wedged flake. Nifty. 5.11, 125 feet.

Pitch 6: Step up and climb onto the huge flake.Negotiate a spicy section of 5.10. Continue up through the very imposing roof above with a delightfully juggy finish. Mind-bending. 5.11, 150 feet.

To descend, walk east down the summit ramp or bring two ropes and rap from the saddle between Mchenry's and Arrowhead. It's possible to link pitches on this badboy, but the climbing is hard, and when Andy says to stop, y'all better stop. All in all, one of the finest routes I've climbed in the Park. Enjoy.

Protection Suggest change

Doubles to 0.75 Camalot, singles in #1, 2, 3 Camalot, RPs.