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Routes in Arrowhead

Airhead T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Arrowplane T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Artemis T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bequeathed T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
East Face/Arrowhead T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Full Metal Jacket T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gimme Shelter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Glacier Gorge Traverse T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Godfather, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Ithaca T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Lost Arrowhead T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Rain Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ramp Tramp T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Refugium T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ripsaw/Northeast Ridge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shaft, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shoshone T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sidewinder T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sloppy Seconds T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
South Ramp T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Thai Hot T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c C1 R
V-Free T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Warhead T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Watership Down T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Alpine, 850 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Don Bushey and Patrick Clark
Page Views: 118 total, 1/month
Shared By: Don Bushey on Sep 26, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

On the South Face of Arrrowhead, there is a large triangular broken area with a slabby apron at its toe, capped by arching overhangs. Bequeathed begins just to the right of Warhead and aims for the prominent, white, open book. Above the initial difficulties lies surprisingly excellent, moderate crack climbing on stellar rock.

Pitch 1-Begin on the right margin of the apron and trend left crossing several black water streaks- sometimes wet (7s). Gain an obvious, arching overlap on the slab and continue to the base of the steep, open book. 200 ft.

Pitch 2- Execute wild stemming moves with flared thin fingers(10d). Plug in some good gear and continue stemming (10b) until the angle eases and an impasse is reached. Charge up the improbable and steep headwall above (8+s) and belay. A small TCU would be helpful for the initial moves off the ledge.

Pitch 3- Trend left on a ramp system and reach a vertical fist crack. Jam the crack (8) and belay beneath the left of two left-facing dihedrals.

Pitch 4- A long pitch. Climb the pleasant dihedral (7) to a clean slab split by a hand and fist crack. Jam the crack for about 30 ft. (8). Where the corner changes aspect, continue up the right-facing dihedral (8). Stretch the rope to a belay in a broken area. 200 ft.

Pitch 5- Aim up toward the notch on the left skyline and enter a steep handcrack via a bulge (9+). Jam the crack (9) with awesome exposure and belay on a comfortable ledge.

Pitch 6- Enter the V-slot above the belay, sling a pillar, and escape left via a face traverse (8) to reach a right-facing dihedral. Perfect fingers (9) leads to a roof. Turn the roof on the right (9), and follow easier terrain to the top.

Protection

Bring a standard rack with a couple small TCUs for the crux.

Photos

patrick  
I'm wondering- has anyone has climbed this? It was named in honor of Andy Donson who, in an act of jaw-dropping generosity, told us about the line and suggested we "have a go". Apr 22, 2011