Type: Trad, Alpine, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Richard Rossiter, rope solo, 10 September 2008
Page Views: 961 total · 7/month
Shared By: Richard Rossiter on Nov 19, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This excellent route begins behind a big tree on the brushy ledge that crosses the lower south side of the first tower on the Northeast Ridge. Hike the Solitude Lake Trail to Shelf Lake. Just before reaching the east end of Solitude Lake, hike talus to a high point on the shoulder of the Northeast Ridge. Climb the initial slab of Ripsaw for about 60 feet then break left around the crest, descend a short way and continue across a ledge system to a big tree.

P1. Climb the left side of a wedged flake then climb up the outside of a huge flake to a good ledge at its top (8, 90 feet).

P2. From the far left (west) end of the ledge, pull up and left into a shallow, left-facing dihedral (9 s) and clip a bolt. Follow the scalloped dihedral past 2 more bolts and a fixed pin to a left-leaning roof/dihedral. Lieback the dihedral and belay at its top beneath a second left-leaning roof/dihedral (10a, 90 feet).

P3. Climb the second roof/dihedral through an apex, stay left and belay at a horn in a crack that goes straight up the wall (10b, 70 feet).

P4. Follow the crack to the top of the wall where it veers right to join Ripsaw (9, 90 feet).

Rappel Ripsaw (2 X 100 feet) and down-climb the initial slab (class 4) or climb a short way higher to the top of the first pinnacle on the Northeast Ridge and continue with Ripsaw.

Location

Hike the Solitude Lake Trail to Shelf Lake. Just before reaching the east end of Solitude Lake, hike talus to a high point on the shoulder of the Northeast Ridge. Climb the initial slab of Ripsaw for about 60 feet then break left around the crest, descend a short way and continue across a ledge to a big tree.

This point can also be reached from Black Lake. Approach as for the South Face routes. Break right where the terrain seems to beckon then traverse a long way right across talus until it is obvious to scramble up a gully to the ledge with the big tree.

Protection

Full rack from thin to 3 inches. Pitch 2 has 3 bolts and a fixed pin, but this is no sport climb.

Photos