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Routes in Arrowhead

Airhead T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Arrowplane T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Artemis T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bequeathed T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Diamond Back T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
East Face/Arrowhead T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Full Metal Jacket T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gimme Shelter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Glacier Gorge Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Godfather, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Ithaca T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Lost Arrowhead T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Rain Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ramp Tramp T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Refugium T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ripsaw/Northeast Ridge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shaft, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shoshone T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sidewinder T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
South Ramp T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Thai Hot T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c C1 R
V-Free T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Warhead T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Watership Down T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Richard Rossiter, rope solo, 10 September 2008
Page Views: 697 total · 6/month
Shared By: Richard Rossiter on Nov 19, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This excellent route begins behind a big tree on the brushy ledge that crosses the lower south side of the first tower on the Northeast Ridge. Hike the Solitude Lake Trail to Shelf Lake. Just before reaching the east end of Solitude Lake, hike talus to a high point on the shoulder of the Northeast Ridge. Climb the initial slab of Ripsaw for about 60 feet then break left around the crest, descend a short way and continue across a ledge system to a big tree.

P1. Climb the left side of a wedged flake then climb up the outside of a huge flake to a good ledge at its top (8, 90 feet).

P2. From the far left (west) end of the ledge, pull up and left into a shallow, left-facing dihedral (9 s) and clip a bolt. Follow the scalloped dihedral past 2 more bolts and a fixed pin to a left-leaning roof/dihedral. Lieback the dihedral and belay at its top beneath a second left-leaning roof/dihedral (10a, 90 feet).

P3. Climb the second roof/dihedral through an apex, stay left and belay at a horn in a crack that goes straight up the wall (10b, 70 feet).

P4. Follow the crack to the top of the wall where it veers right to join Ripsaw (9, 90 feet).

Rappel Ripsaw (2 X 100 feet) and down-climb the initial slab (class 4) or climb a short way higher to the top of the first pinnacle on the Northeast Ridge and continue with Ripsaw.

Location

Hike the Solitude Lake Trail to Shelf Lake. Just before reaching the east end of Solitude Lake, hike talus to a high point on the shoulder of the Northeast Ridge. Climb the initial slab of Ripsaw for about 60 feet then break left around the crest, descend a short way and continue across a ledge to a big tree.

This point can also be reached from Black Lake. Approach as for the South Face routes. Break right where the terrain seems to beckon then traverse a long way right across talus until it is obvious to scramble up a gully to the ledge with the big tree.

Protection

Full rack from thin to 3 inches. Pitch 2 has 3 bolts and a fixed pin, but this is no sport climb.

Photos

Richard Rossiter
  5.10b
Richard Rossiter  
  5.10b
It is hard to believe that no one has climbed and commented on this route. It is really good! Jan 27, 2018
J. Albers
Colorado
J. Albers   Colorado
Hi Richard,
It's actually on my list, for whatever that's worth. Question though, why did you give this zero stars in your new book? Typo? May 11, 2018
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
Approach from the Solitude Lake side, and cut a mile or two off of the Black Lake burden you might have been thinking about. It has great views, and the trail is actually not bad.

The Diamondback variation of P2 is a 2-star route. It could get more if it cleans up a little more, but the feet were scaling quite a bit, and the gear is sometimes poor or in poor rock. The first part of the climb is certainly a no-fall zone. Finishing up Ripsaw to the true summit is a good add-on.

P1. 5.7, 70'. This takes a large piece if you want it. Save a 3" for the belay.

P2/3. 5.10b/c S Diamondback variation seems most natural to link these 2 pitches. The feet are scaly, and the pro substandard at least on the first 1/2.

P4 is mostly 5.6/5.7 with a single move that might be 5.8/5.9 and climbs/protects quite well, actually.

Finishing on Ripsaw to the summit is a bit over a mile and mostly 5.7 or well below. Jul 14, 2018
See beta pick for pitch one on Diamond Back page. Great route, but I was happy to 2nd the crux as it was hard with bad gear. Jul 15, 2018

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