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Routes in Pigeon Feathers

Electric Funeral T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Lentils or TVP, eh? T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Solitary Confinement T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, Alpine, 500 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: S. Isaac, G. Statham, A. Querner
Page Views: 10,011 total, 134/month
Shared By: hanshan on Oct 19, 2011
Admins: Kate Lynn

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

Maybe the most pure multipitch splitter you will ever climb. P1 fingers to tips (fixed pin) to hands (5.11), P2 hands to off-hands (10-), P3 fists (11-), P4 offwidth (10+), P5 hands and fists through small roofs (5.10), P6 stemming to top of tower (10+)

Location

Right up the middle of Prince Albert Tower. You'll know it when you see it.

Protection

Doubles micro to 5", 3 or 4 4", all bolted anchors to rap with 2 ropes
Alexander K
The road
 
Alexander K   The road
 
P6 is more like 5.9 than 5.10+. Definitely link P1 and P2, and 3x #4 should be plenty for the route. Aug 10, 2017
earl mcalister
Las Vegas, NV
earl mcalister   Las Vegas, NV
Route can be rapped with a 70 meter rope. Watch out for a snagged rope on the first rappel from the summit. Pitches 1 and 2 can easily be linked if you bring a 3, 4 and 5 camalot. Much more comfortable belay stance at the top of 2. Aug 6, 2017
One of the finest splitters anywhere. Dec 4, 2015
Jesse Ramos
Minturn, CO
 
Jesse Ramos   Minturn, CO
 
Great line for sure. The fixed pin on pitch 1 is gone. A set of nuts is useful on the first pitch. Pitch 5 is nice but needs a little more traffic due to black lichen. Aug 19, 2013
notmyname
Sandy, UT
notmyname   Sandy, UT
what are the ratings by pitch? Jul 3, 2012
adam brink
Boulder, CO
adam brink   Boulder, CO
Wow! That looks like the holy grail of crack climbing. Apr 16, 2012
Colin Simon
Boulder, CO
Colin Simon   Boulder, CO
Mother of God. Apr 16, 2012
Holy shit man. Dec 26, 2011