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Areas in Central Coast

Big Sur 1 / 0 / 9 / 17 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 26
Camarillo Springs Boulder (Lonesome Cube) 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Carmel Bay 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Conejo Mountain 9 / 21 / 14 / 2 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 36
Hwy 166/Silly Rock 0 / 57 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 57
Hwy 33/Ojai 57 / 76 / 15 / 208 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 342
Pinnacles National Park 75 / 137 / 21 / 0 / 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 207
Point Mugu 2 / 0 / 11 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 15
San Luis Obispo 77 / 101 / 75 / 31 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 219
Santa Barbara 123 / 102 / 68 / 423 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 668
Santa Cruz 1 / 1 / 0 / 20 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 21
Tar Creek (the Swimming Hole) 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Wagon Caves 0 / 4 / 18 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 22
Elevation: 167 ft
GPS: 35.273, -120.668 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 1,297,420 total · 8,581/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Feb 13, 2006 with updates from Tony Lobay
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
Getting weather forecast...

Description

Located between major urban centers Los Angeles to the south and the San Francisco Bay to the north, the quaint Central Coast of California spans a 300-mile stretch from the southern Santa Monica Mountains to the northern Monterey Peninsula. While known primarily for surfing, celebrities, exorbitant real estate prices, and wine-tasting (the movie "Sideways" was filmed locally), there is actually surprisingly good climbing to be found. The majority of rock around Santa Barbara, Ventura, and Ojai is medium-grade sandstone (i.e., a little friable), but there's also blue schist (Green Dome), andesite (SLO), and conglomerate (Silly Rock, Wheeler Gorge) out there. The climbing is by no means world class, but what it lacks in quality it makes up for in aesthetics. As a friend of mine would say, "maybe not 4-star climbing, but makes for a 4-star day!"

Areas like the Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) had established routes as early as the late 50s and 60s. Over the years, many well-known climbers have graced these small cliffsides, including the likes of Yvon Chouinard (Yosemite legend and founder/owner of Patagonia), Jonny Woodward (Black Diamond), Jim Donini and even Henry Barber!

Around Santa Barbara and Ventura, pioneers of the '80s and '90s included Kevin Brown, Kevin Steele, Steve Tucker, Menzo Baird, Bob Banks (author of "Ocean's Eleven") and Steve Edwards (guidebook author of "Rock Climbing Santa Barbara & Ventura"), who established many of the newer sport routes around Santa Barbara and Hwy 166/Silly Rock.

In San Luis Obispo county, pioneers include Rusty Garing, Dwight Kroll, Pete Gulyash, brothers Tim and Tobin Sorenson, Ed Sampson, Ken Klis, Tom Slater (guidebook author of "California Central Coast Climbs"), and Brandon Thau. Slater, Thau, and Klis are responsible for developing such crags as Cerro Romauldo, Cabrillo Peak and Big Rocks.

Former Access Fund director Reese Martin lived in the area for a time. Sadly, he was killed in a paragliding accident in July 2004 at the age of 49 (More...).

Guidebooks


Getting There

Hwy 101 is the major artery between Ventura and San Luis Obispo (and beyond). 99% of the routes described here lie either off the 101, 154 (San Marcos Pass), 33 (Ojai), or 166 (east of Santa Maria). Refer to specific area for details and directions.

This map will help get you oriented.

1,619 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Central Coast

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V0+ 4+
 63
Lizards' Mouth Traverse
Boulder
V3 6A
 79
Charlotte's Web
Boulder
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 77
Costanoan
Sport 4 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
 121
Portent
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 82
Swallow Crack
Trad, Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 103
60 Seconds Over Soledad
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 102
Ending Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 74
Rat Race
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 87
Ordeal
Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 71
P-Crack
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 136
The Wet Kiss
Sport, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
 85
Subterranean Tango
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 89
Stupendous Man
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 80
Camel
Sport, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 96
Post Orgasmic Depression
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Lizards' Mouth Traverse Santa Barbara > … > Lizard's Mouth > Mouth
 63
V0+ 4+ Boulder
Charlotte's Web Santa Barbara > … > Brickyard > Charlotte's Web Area
 79
V3 6A Boulder
Costanoan Pinnacles NP > W Side > Citadel
 77
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Sport 4 pitches
Portent Pinnacles NP > E Side > Discovery Wall
 121
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R Trad, TR
Swallow Crack Pinnacles NP > E Side > Discovery Wall
 82
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Sport
60 Seconds Over Soledad San Luis Obispo > Bishop Peak > Cracked Wall
 103
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Ending Crack Hwy 33/Ojai > Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)
 102
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Rat Race Pinnacles NP > E Side > Tourist Trap
 74
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Ordeal Pinnacles NP > E Side > Discovery Wall
 87
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
P-Crack San Luis Obispo > Bishop Peak > P-Wall
 71
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
The Wet Kiss Pinnacles NP > E Side > Discovery Wall
 136
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, TR
Subterranean Tango Pinnacles NP > E Side > Monolith
 85
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Sport
Stupendous Man Pinnacles NP > E Side > Discovery Wall
 89
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Camel San Luis Obispo > Bishop Peak > Cracked Wall
 80
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, TR
Post Orgasmic Depression Pinnacles NP > E Side > Monolith
 96
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Central Coast »

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EricT
Santa Barbara, CA
EricT   Santa Barbara, CA
Nice work Mike, and a good description of the central coast as well. Feb 14, 2006

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