Elevation: 3,600 ft
GPS: 34.578, -119.258 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 54,133 total · 308/month
Shared By: M Morley on Feb 13, 2006
Admins: andy patterson, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description

The Sespe Gorge/Black Wall offers the Central Coast's only true multi-pitch climbing within a 4-hr drive. There are around 2 dozen documented routes, all on fairly low-angle terrain and varying in quality from excellent to downright horrible. Ending Crack (5.7) and Tree Root (5.5) account for about 98% of climber traffic on any given day. Expect to encounter some loose rock and vegetation on the less popular routes.

In the summer months, the wall is in the sun most of the day.

6 bolts on the Ending Crack rappel route were replaced 9/99 by Reese Martin. 2 ropes are needed to descend most routes.

Getting There

From Ojai, head north on 33 for about 20 miles. There is a small pullout for the Black Wall on the left side of the road.

If coming from Santa Maria or San Luis Obispo, it's faster to take the 166 east out of Santa Maria towards New Cuyama (passing Silly Rocks en route), turning right (south) onto 33 up and over Pine Mountain pass. Done this way, the Black Wall and Potrero John are about 100 miles (1.5+ hrs) from Santa Maria.

18 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V2 5+
 11
Black Wall Traverse
Boulder
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 93
Tree Root
Trad 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 50
Pipe Cleaner
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 8
Pine to Pine
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 122
Ending Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 10
Bee Line
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 12
Edge of Night
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 8
The White Spider
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 13
Wadka
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 9
Roadside Cracks
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
 5
The Wasp/The Sting
Trad 3 pitches
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 14
Glory Days
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Black Wall Traverse
 11
V2 5+ Boulder
Tree Root
 93
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 2 pitches
Pipe Cleaner
 50
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Pine to Pine
 8
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Ending Crack
 122
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Bee Line
 10
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Edge of Night
 12
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad 2 pitches
The White Spider
 8
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad
Wadka
 13
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad
Roadside Cracks
 9
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
The Wasp/The Sting
 5
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R Trad 3 pitches
Glory Days
 14
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
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