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Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) Rock Climbing
Routes in Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)
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Bee Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Black Wall Traverse V2 5+ |
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Boss Man, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Chips Block T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Edge of Night T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Ending Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Floyd T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Glory Days S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Half Ascent T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Lost in the Sespe T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Mrs. Murphy's Rusty Old Packard T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Pine to Pine T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Pipe Cleaner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Roadside Cracks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tree Root T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Wadka T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Wasp/The Sting, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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White Spider, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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| Elevation: | 3,600 ft | 1,097 m |
| GPS: |
34.5776, -119.2579 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 75,675 total · 324/month | |
| Shared By: | Mike Morley on Feb 13, 2006 | |
| Admins: | andy patterson, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Hwy 33 Road Closure
Details
Check Caltrans ( roads.dot.ca.gov/) for up-to-date closure information.
Description
The Sespe Gorge/Black Wall offers the Central Coast's only true multi-pitch climbing within a 4-hr drive. There are around 2 dozen documented routes, all on fairly low-angle terrain and varying in quality from excellent to downright horrible. Ending Crack (5.7) and Tree Root (5.5) account for about 98% of climber traffic on any given day. Expect to encounter some loose rock and vegetation on the less popular routes.
In the summer months, the wall is in the sun most of the day.
6 bolts on the Ending Crack rappel route were replaced 9/99 by Reese Martin. 2 ropes are needed to descend most routes.
In the summer months, the wall is in the sun most of the day.
6 bolts on the Ending Crack rappel route were replaced 9/99 by Reese Martin. 2 ropes are needed to descend most routes.
Getting There
From Ojai, head north on 33 for about 20 miles. There is a small pullout for the Black Wall on the left side of the road.
If coming from Santa Maria or San Luis Obispo, it's faster to take the 166 east out of Santa Maria towards New Cuyama (passing Silly Rocks en route), turning right (south) onto 33 up and over Pine Mountain pass. Done this way, the Black Wall and Potrero John are about 100 miles (1.5+ hrs) from Santa Maria.
If coming from Santa Maria or San Luis Obispo, it's faster to take the 166 east out of Santa Maria towards New Cuyama (passing Silly Rocks en route), turning right (south) onto 33 up and over Pine Mountain pass. Done this way, the Black Wall and Potrero John are about 100 miles (1.5+ hrs) from Santa Maria.
Classic Climbing Routes at Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Sun Angles Details:
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Photos
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