All Locations > California > Central Coast > Hwy 33/Ojai

Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)

L › R R › L A › Z

	Bee Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Black Wall Traverse V2 5+
	Boss Man, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Chips Block T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
	Edge of Night T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Ending Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Floyd T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Glory Days S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Half Ascent T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
	Lost in the Sespe T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Mrs. Murphy's Rusty Old Packard T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
	Pine to Pine T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Pipe Cleaner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Roadside Cracks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Tree Root T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Wadka T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Wasp/The Sting, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
	White Spider, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

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Elevation:	3,600 ft
GPS:	34.5776, -119.2579 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	74,804 total · 345/month
Shared By:	Mike Morley on Feb 13, 2006
Admins:	andy patterson, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Hwy 33 Road Closure Details

Check Caltrans ( roads.dot.ca.gov/) for up-to-date closure information.

Description

The Sespe Gorge/Black Wall offers the Central Coast's only true multi-pitch climbing within a 4-hr drive. There are around 2 dozen documented routes, all on fairly low-angle terrain and varying in quality from excellent to downright horrible. Ending Crack (5.7) and Tree Root (5.5) account for about 98% of climber traffic on any given day. Expect to encounter some loose rock and vegetation on the less popular routes.

In the summer months, the wall is in the sun most of the day.

6 bolts on the Ending Crack rappel route were replaced 9/99 by Reese Martin. 2 ropes are needed to descend most routes.

Getting There

From Ojai, head north on 33 for about 20 miles. There is a small pullout for the Black Wall on the left side of the road.

If coming from Santa Maria or San Luis Obispo, it's faster to take the 166 east out of Santa Maria towards New Cuyama (passing Silly Rocks en route), turning right (south) onto 33 up and over Pine Mountain pass. Done this way, the Black Wall and Potrero John are about 100 miles (1.5+ hrs) from Santa Maria.