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Routes in Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)

Bee Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Black Wall Traverse V2 5+
Boss Man, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chips Block T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Edge of Night T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Ending Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Floyd T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Glory Days S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Half Ascent T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Lost in the Sespe T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Mrs. Murphy's Rusty Old Packard T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Pine to Pine T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pipe Cleaner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Roadside Cracks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tree Root T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wadka T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Wasp/The Sting, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
White Spider, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
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Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jauregui, et al.
Page Views: 274 total · 11/month
Shared By: Alex Bury on Jun 16, 2016
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Floyd is an adventurous multi-pitch outing on the leftmost side of the wall. The technical crux is likely 20 feet off the ground, but the main challenge lies in the anchor building and route finding required to complete the route.
There is clearly an opportunity to rappel on the second pitch, but I haven't tried it (we walked off). Rapping might be less involved than the extra 150' of scrambling plus walk-off. Bring two ropes (or a 60m tag line) if you're planning on rapping, at least until you have word that a single line will get you down.
Also come prepared to leave slings at your stations.

Pitch 1: From the creek, climb up to a right leaning corner. Climb past this corner into the dihedrals above, until you gain a wide ledge. Construct a belay.
Pitch 2: Exit the ledge on the left side, and climb the airy slab above.
Either rap off the obvious large tree, or extend the pitch another 150' over easy terrain and walk off.

Location

The leftmost line on Black Wall. Hike along the base until you are below the small left-leaning corner.

Protection

Cams: Small to Medium (2X)
Nuts: Full set
Cordalette/Slings for belays

Photos

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Alex Bury
Ojai, CA
  5.7
Alex Bury   Ojai, CA
  5.7
FA info for this line, seemingly lost to time, was uncovered recently by sheer chance. I was speaking with Mike Jauregui about routes on the wall when he said:

"I remember we did one line way down on the left side of the wall. We had a third person with us, not sure I remember his name."
Trying to figure out which line he meant, I asked, "Do you mean Floyd?"
He said," Yeah! That was his name. Floyd."

Mike is a longtime area climber, especially well known in the SAR community. He's climbed across the globe, with ascents as far reaching as Baffin Island and the Himalaya. Sep 19, 2017

More About Floyd

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