Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Unknown, 1970's
Page Views: 1,950 total · 20/month
Shared By: Richard Shore on Feb 13, 2011
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


9 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A prominent and striking line up the arete at the far right end of the main wall. A classic gear protected runout face climb.

Easy but largely unprotected climbing up the arete with occasional gear opportunities mostly in horizontal cracks. You might want to double up those placements for some added security, too. Cast off again on the exposed arete, with a few 20 foot runouts.

Starting at the base of the wall, climb the arete directly up to a belay slightly off-route at the tree, or belay off gear near or above the tree. The second pitch is much more clean, fun, and exposed.

Location

Starts just left of the gaping "4th class" gully that marks the rightmost end of the main wall.

2 bolt anchor w/chains at the top of the route, and a slung oak tree halfway down the gully make for a quick descent. 2- 30m raps will get you down to the base.

Protection

A set of nuts and single set of cams from #0 TCU to 2 camalot will give you all the protection for the limited opportunities available. 2 bolt chain anchor on top.

Some ant spray might be nice at the top :)

Photos

Richard Shore
  5.7
Richard Shore  
  5.7
This is one of the most visually appealing routes on the Black Wall; second only to the Ending Crack.

While the climbing is relatively easy, the leader must not fall. Simple.

May it forever remain bolt-free (with the exception of the rap anchor, which I assume was placed ONLY to save the small pine tree atop the route). Feb 14, 2011
Chad Parker
Ventura, California
 
Chad Parker   Ventura, California
 
The first rap from the top chain anchor is 35m a 60m rope won't get you to the tree. The first pitch is only 85' or 90'
Thank you Alex Barnett for helping me clean the choss and liken off this route. Much better with the huge run outs. Way more solid. May 22, 2017
Justice Holloway
Ventura, CA
 
Justice Holloway   Ventura, CA
 
Super fun, bring your don't fall hat. Done as one pitch with a 70. Ended up being perfect for the rappel to the tree. Oct 20, 2018