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Routes in Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)

Bee Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Black Wall Traverse V2 5+
Boss Man, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chips Block T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Edge of Night T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Ending Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Floyd T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Glory Days S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Half Ascent T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Lost in the Sespe T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Mrs. Murphy's Rusty Old Packard T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Pine to Pine T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pipe Cleaner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Roadside Cracks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tree Root T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wadka T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Wasp/The Sting, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
White Spider, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Unknown, 1970's
Page Views: 1,728 total, 21/month
Shared By: Richard Shore on Feb 13, 2011
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A prominent and striking line up the arete at the far right end of the main wall. A classic gear protected runout face climb.

Easy but largely unprotected climbing up the arete with occasional gear opportunities mostly in horizontal cracks. You might want to double up those placements for some added security, too. Cast off again on the exposed arete, with a few 20 foot runouts.

Starting at the base of the wall, climb the arete directly up to a belay slightly off-route at the tree, or belay off gear near or above the tree. The second pitch is much more clean, fun, and exposed.

Location

Starts just left of the gaping "4th class" gully that marks the rightmost end of the main wall.

2 bolt anchor w/chains at the top of the route, and a slung oak tree halfway down the gully make for a quick descent. 2- 30m raps will get you down to the base.

Protection

A set of nuts and single set of cams from #0 TCU to 2 camalot will give you all the protection for the limited opportunities available. 2 bolt chain anchor on top.

Some ant spray might be nice at the top :)

Photos

Chad Parker
Ventura, California
 
Chad Parker   Ventura, California
 
The first rap from the top chain anchor is 35m a 60m rope won't get you to the tree. The first pitch is only 85' or 90'
Thank you Alex Barnett for helping me clean the choss and liken off this route. Much better with the huge run outs. Way more solid. May 22, 2017
This is one of the most visually appealing routes on the Black Wall; second only to the Ending Crack.

While the climbing is relatively easy, the leader must not fall. Simple.

May it forever remain bolt-free (with the exception of the rap anchor, which I assume was placed ONLY to save the small pine tree atop the route). Feb 14, 2011