Edge of Night
Avg: 3.3 from 7 votes
Routes in Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)
|Bee Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Black Wall Traverse V2 5+|
|Boss Man, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Chips Block T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13|
|Edge of Night T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R|
|Ending Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Floyd T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Glory Days S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Half Ascent T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R|
|Lost in the Sespe T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Mrs. Murphy's Rusty Old Packard T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13|
|Pine to Pine T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Pipe Cleaner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Roadside Cracks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Tree Root T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Wadka T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R|
|Wasp/The Sting, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R|
|White Spider, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R|
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches|
|Page Views:||1,728 total, 21/month|
|Shared By:||Richard Shore on Feb 13, 2011|
|Admins:||andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionA prominent and striking line up the arete at the far right end of the main wall. A classic gear protected runout face climb.
Easy but largely unprotected climbing up the arete with occasional gear opportunities mostly in horizontal cracks. You might want to double up those placements for some added security, too. Cast off again on the exposed arete, with a few 20 foot runouts.
Starting at the base of the wall, climb the arete directly up to a belay slightly off-route at the tree, or belay off gear near or above the tree. The second pitch is much more clean, fun, and exposed.
LocationStarts just left of the gaping "4th class" gully that marks the rightmost end of the main wall.
2 bolt anchor w/chains at the top of the route, and a slung oak tree halfway down the gully make for a quick descent. 2- 30m raps will get you down to the base.