Elevation: 1,269 ft
GPS: 34.487, -119.303 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 275,762 total · 1,729/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Feb 13, 2006 with updates from Connor Teophil
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description

The 2-lane California Highway 33 branches off from the 101 freeway in Ventura and winds itself north, skirting the quaint town of Ojai. If you are driving north from Ventura, the crags are in the following sequence:

Getting There

From the beachside town of Ventura, head north towards Ojai on 33. Refer to crag descriptions for additional directions.

Here's a map to get your bearings.

340 Total Climbs

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Location: Hwy 33/Ojai Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Hwy 33/Ojai

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V1 5 R
 36
● Rapunzel
Boulder
Hwy 33/Ojai Bou… > Pine Mountain > Enlightenment Ridge
V2 5+
 26
● Quiet Soul
Boulder
Hwy 33/Ojai Bou… > Pine Mountain > Enlightenment Ridge
V3 6A
 40
● Painted Carnival
Boulder
Hwy 33/Ojai Bou… > Pine Mountain > Picnic Area Boulders
V3 6A
 33
● Happy Hunting Grounds (a.k.a. He…
Boulder
Hwy 33/Ojai Bou… > Pine Mountain > Happy Hunting Grounds
V6 7A
 25
● Dissing Euros
Boulder
Hwy 33/Ojai Bou… > Pine Mountain > Happy Hunting Grounds
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 80
● Tree Root
Trad 2 pitches
Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 45
● Pipe Cleaner
Trad
Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 105
● Ending Crack
Trad 2 pitches
Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 85
● Cobble Climb
Sport
Wheeler Gorge
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 78
● Cruiser
Sport
Wheeler Gorge
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 80
● Ezra
Sport
Wheeler Gorge
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 58
● Permanent Income Hypothesis
Sport
Fortress > Right Side Gully
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 66
● South of the Trout Farm
Sport
Wheeler Gorge
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 48
● Economique
Sport
Wheeler Gorge
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 42
● Stuart's Rig (aka Stu Boy)
Sport
Wheeler Gorge
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Rapunzel Hwy 33/Ojai Bou… > Pine Mountain > Enlightenment Ridge
 36
V1 5 R Boulder
● Quiet Soul Hwy 33/Ojai Bou… > Pine Mountain > Enlightenment Ridge
 26
V2 5+ Boulder
● Painted Carnival Hwy 33/Ojai Bou… > Pine Mountain > Picnic Area Boulders
 40
V3 6A Boulder
● Happy Hunting Grounds (a.k.… Hwy 33/Ojai Bou… > Pine Mountain > Happy Hunting Grounds
 33
V3 6A Boulder
● Dissing Euros Hwy 33/Ojai Bou… > Pine Mountain > Happy Hunting Grounds
 25
V6 7A Boulder
● Tree Root Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)
 80
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 2 pitches
● Pipe Cleaner Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)
 45
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
● Ending Crack Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)
 105
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad 2 pitches
● Cobble Climb Wheeler Gorge
 85
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
● Cruiser Wheeler Gorge
 78
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
● Ezra Wheeler Gorge
 80
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
● Permanent Income Hypothesis Fortress > Right Side Gully
 58
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
● South of the Trout Farm Wheeler Gorge
 66
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
● Economique Wheeler Gorge
 48
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● Stuart's Rig (aka Stu Boy) Wheeler Gorge
 42
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Hwy 33/Ojai »

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Add New Photo
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Photos

Humboldt Lilies, growing along Hwy-33 above Ojai
Humboldt Lilies, growing along Hwy-33 above Ojai
 5
Natural Mystic
Natural Mystic
 2
Sespe Backcountry.
Sespe Backcountry.
 1
Alex Bury bouldering directly under Hwy 33 at Wheeler Gorge
Alex Bury bouldering directly under Hwy 33 at W…
 1
Andrew on a route in Wheeler Gorge, possible 5.12a? Belaying from the water
Andrew on a route in Wheeler Gorge, possible 5.…
 1
Trad Bob on the Black wall traverse <br> 2/4/2018
Trad Bob on the Black wall traverse 2/4/2018
 0
Hi-way 33 sport route
Hi-way 33 sport route
 0
<em>The Ojai Valley.</em>
The Ojai Valley.
 0
Alex Bury does a traverse at Wheeler Gorge
Alex Bury does a traverse at Wheeler Gorge
 0
Overview of Los Padres, including the Foot, Wheeler Gorge, and Sespe Gorge.
Overview of Los Padres, including the Foot, Whe…
 0
Hwy 33 (Ventura/Ojai) Overview
Hwy 33 (Ventura/Ojai) Overview
 0

9 Comments

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Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
Cool geological information about the Sespe Gorge area Aug 17, 2008
t-rev
t-rev  
Has anyone here climbed Chouinard-Bossier on Matilija wall? Or does anyone know about the access situation? There's not much info out there for this route. Feb 7, 2009
C Runyan
Boulder, CO
C Runyan   Boulder, CO
t-rev: Full topos, photos, and other details about Matilija, Cathedral Peak, and a number of other gems missing from the Falcon Guide can be found in the out-of-print 1994 guide "Climbing! Santa Barbara, Ventura, San Luis Obispo" by Steve Tucker and Kevin Steele. Sep 14, 2009
steve edwards
SLC, UT
steve edwards   SLC, UT
I spent a fair amount of time trying to get good access for Matilija. Got a guy who has "closed" the road to give me access but not to open the road to the public. We could get it open but no one seemed intereseted about fighting for it and the rangers were indifferent. This was for the West Camino Cielo access. You can still get there via a horrible scrample up from the res but it's ridiculous unless you want it badly, which is why I said in my guide that it's probably more time efficient to drive to the Sierra. If someone was was amped about the place and wanted to do some work I think decent access could be gained. Aug 10, 2010
Davi Rivas
Ventura, CA
Davi Rivas   Ventura, CA
I jus posted some pics of Matilija Wall, any takers? Nov 12, 2010
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
For automobile aficionados:
Where does Car & Driver Magazine go to test drive a 500-hp super car?..

Highway-33, of course. Look for Wheeler Gorge in this video Nov 6, 2012
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
A workaday road that cuts through California's back story Apr 3, 2013
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
Even on 100 degree days like those of the past week, it is possible to find climbable conditions along the Hwy-33 corridor. Wheeler can be down right pleasant as the narrow canyon usually generates its own air movement. Derrydale Cliff is in the shade until close to noon. Potrero John and Sespe have full shade from about 2pm onward.

On Saturday, when the temp was 101 at the site, we climbed Derrydale all morning and Potrero all afternoon, with some time by the creek in between.The day was surprisingly enjoyable. Jun 25, 2017
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
12/5/2017 - The Thomas Fire is currently burning "out of control". No access to any of these crags at present. More at vcstar.com/story/news/local… Dec 5, 2017