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Areas in Hwy 33/Ojai

Bigcone and Ladybug Canyons 13 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
Derrydale Cliff 2 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Foothill Crag ("The Foot") 6 / 5 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Fortress, The 4 / 16 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 20
Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering 1 / 0 / 0 / 204 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 205
Matilija Wall 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Potrero John 2 / 7 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) 16 / 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 18
Shelf Ridge 5 / 1 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 9
Upper Foothill (The Hideout) 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Wheeler Gorge 1 / 33 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 34
Wheeler Gorge - East Gully (aka "Cobble Choss") 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Elevation: 1,269 ft
GPS: 34.487, -119.303 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 234,294 total · 1,539/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Feb 13, 2006 with updates from Connor Teophil
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Description

The 2-lane California Highway 33 branches off from the 101 freeway in Ventura and winds itself north, skirting the quaint town of Ojai. If you are driving north from Ventura, the crags are in the following sequence:

Getting There

From the beachside town of Ventura, head north towards Ojai on 33. Refer to crag descriptions for additional directions.

Here's a map to get your bearings.

342 Total Climbs

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Location: Hwy 33/Ojai Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Hwy 33/Ojai

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V1 5 R
 35
Rapunzel
Boulder
V2 5+
 23
Quiet Soul
Boulder
V3 6A
 32
Happy Hunting Grounds (a.k.a. Heaven…
Boulder
V3 6A
 38
Painted Carnival
Boulder
V5-6 6C+
 20
Sock Hop
Boulder
V6 7A
 25
Dissing Euros
Boulder
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 77
Tree Root
Trad 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 39
Pipe Cleaner
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 102
Ending Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 80
Cobble Climb
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 75
Cruiser
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 78
Ezra
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 52
Permanent Income Hypothesis
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 65
South of the Trout Farm
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 46
Economique
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Rapunzel Hwy 33/Ojai Bou… > Pine Mtn > Enlightenment Ridge
 35
V1 5 R Boulder
Quiet Soul Hwy 33/Ojai Bou… > Pine Mtn > Enlightenment Ridge
 23
V2 5+ Boulder
Happy Hunting Grounds (a.k.… Hwy 33/Ojai Bou… > Pine Mtn > Happy Hunting Grounds
 32
V3 6A Boulder
Painted Carnival Hwy 33/Ojai Bou… > Pine Mtn > Picnic Area Boulders
 38
V3 6A Boulder
Sock Hop Hwy 33/Ojai Bou… > Pine Mtn > Lower Ridge
 20
V5-6 6C+ Boulder
Dissing Euros Hwy 33/Ojai Bou… > Pine Mtn > Happy Hunting Grounds
 25
V6 7A Boulder
Tree Root Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)
 77
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Pipe Cleaner Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)
 39
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Ending Crack Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)
 102
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Cobble Climb Wheeler Gorge
 80
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Cruiser Wheeler Gorge
 75
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Ezra Wheeler Gorge
 78
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Permanent Income Hypothesis Fortress > Right Side Gully
 52
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
South of the Trout Farm Wheeler Gorge
 65
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Economique Wheeler Gorge
 46
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Hwy 33/Ojai »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
t-rev  
Has anyone here climbed Chouinard-Bossier on Matilija wall? Or does anyone know about the access situation? There's not much info out there for this route. Feb 7, 2009
C Runyan
Boulder, CO
C Runyan   Boulder, CO
t-rev: Full topos, photos, and other details about Matilija, Cathedral Peak, and a number of other gems missing from the Falcon Guide can be found in the out-of-print 1994 guide "Climbing! Santa Barbara, Ventura, San Luis Obispo" by Steve Tucker and Kevin Steele. Sep 14, 2009
steve edwards
SLC, UT
steve edwards   SLC, UT
I spent a fair amount of time trying to get good access for Matilija. Got a guy who has "closed" the road to give me access but not to open the road to the public. We could get it open but no one seemed intereseted about fighting for it and the rangers were indifferent. This was for the West Camino Cielo access. You can still get there via a horrible scrample up from the res but it's ridiculous unless you want it badly, which is why I said in my guide that it's probably more time efficient to drive to the Sierra. If someone was was amped about the place and wanted to do some work I think decent access could be gained. Aug 10, 2010
Davi Rivas
Ventura, CA
Davi Rivas   Ventura, CA
I jus posted some pics of Matilija Wall, any takers? Nov 12, 2010
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
For automobile aficionados:
Where does Car & Driver Magazine go to test drive a 500-hp super car?..

Highway-33, of course. Look for Wheeler Gorge in this video Nov 6, 2012
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
Even on 100 degree days like those of the past week, it is possible to find climbable conditions along the Hwy-33 corridor. Wheeler can be down right pleasant as the narrow canyon usually generates its own air movement. Derrydale Cliff is in the shade until close to noon. Potrero John and Sespe have full shade from about 2pm onward.

On Saturday, when the temp was 101 at the site, we climbed Derrydale all morning and Potrero all afternoon, with some time by the creek in between.The day was surprisingly enjoyable. Jun 25, 2017
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
12/5/2017 - The Thomas Fire is currently burning "out of control". No access to any of these crags at present. More at vcstar.com/story/news/local… Dec 5, 2017

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