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Routes in Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)

Bee Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Black Wall Traverse V2 5+
Boss Man, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chips Block T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Edge of Night T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Ending Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Floyd T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Glory Days S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Half Ascent T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Lost in the Sespe T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Mrs. Murphy's Rusty Old Packard T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Pine to Pine T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pipe Cleaner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Roadside Cracks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tree Root T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wadka T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Wasp/The Sting, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
White Spider, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Herbert Rickert et al. '59
Page Views: 5,768 total, 40/month
Shared By: Davi Rivas on Feb 15, 2006
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route starts two cracks to the right of Ending Crack, sort of underneath a large tree growing at the base of the wall. Climb the splitter to a small tree growing out of the crack and two bolt belay. P2 follows the crack up to left, joining the final segment of Ending Crack and Wadka.

Protection

Pro tho 3in. 2 2-rope rappels. Save the trees, use the anchors.

Note: The 2 anchor bolts were replaced 9/99 by Reese Martin.
Alex Bury
Ojai, CA
 
Alex Bury   Ojai, CA
 
Recovered a stuck cam today 7.23, send me a message to get it back (name the brand/size). Jul 23, 2016
Chris Joy
  5.6
Chris Joy  
  5.6
Came out to Sespe to climb Ender Crack, but there were 2 groups on it. So, my partner and I climbed this lovely route. The first 35' on pitch one definitely felt like a 5.6-5.7. I started from the ground and followed the crack, and the first place for pro was 15'+ up. Some awkward moves, but very sustainable. Pitch 2 was REALLY fun. I ended up placing 4 cams, due to it being so juggy, and it felt very safe. FYI, you cannot rappel from belay 2 to 1 with an 80m rope.....Don't ask me how I know this. Good thing we brought a 60m just in case ;)

I was able to use my brand new BD X4s (1-4) on pitch one. I love these new cams. I used a BD C4 1 & 3, and a BD X4 3 & 4 on pitch 2. Feb 29, 2016
Chad Parker
Ventura, California
  5.6
Chad Parker   Ventura, California
  5.6
5.6 260 feet. 2 ropes to get down safely. Jul 23, 2015
Nick Mudd
  5.7
Nick Mudd  
  5.7
Not sure why this is listed as 5.5 and 200 feet. It's more like 5.7 and closer to 300 feet. Make sure to take up a second rope or you'll have trouble getting down. Jun 23, 2014
Matt N
Santa Barbara, CA
  5.6
Matt N   Santa Barbara, CA
  5.6
Was able to rap to the ground from P1 on a friends 60m - so it all depends on how long your 60m is!

Also, for a first lead, P1 of Ending Crack is much, much better and I'd say a grade easier than P1 of Tree Root. May 20, 2013
Tristan Burnham
La Crescenta, CA
Tristan Burnham   La Crescenta, CA
A 60M rope worked perfect to rap down from the bolts next to the tree on the first pitch. I only did 100ft of the second pitch and then rapped down off a big tree. Feb 27, 2013
Jiana ten Brinke
Santa Barbara, CA
  5.6
Jiana ten Brinke   Santa Barbara, CA
  5.6
  • *Note to novice trad leaders** Just lead this climb for the first time and I agree with Mathew F.'s statement above that the beginning of P1 is harder than 5.5 and gear placements are less straightforward. I'm about 5'2" so if you're taller you may be able to reach the placements from better feet holds, but I would rate the first part of Pitch1 of the climb more like 5.7 due to the thin face features. Just something to keep in mind if you are expecting 5.5 the whole way. Otherwise, it's a great route and the tree at the first anchor provides nice shade on a sunny day.
Aug 31, 2011
James Ging
Thousand Oaks, CA
 
James Ging   Thousand Oaks, CA
 
I've managed to rap the first pitch with a single 60m the last 3 times I was there, from the 2 bolt anchor right of the first tree. I end up a few feet off the ground, but if I go just right of the start of the crack the ground near the tree meets me just fine. Second pitch seems to be roughly 170ft, and it does seem like rapping to Ending Crack would work, but that anchor has been occupied every time I've been up there so far, so haven't managed to try it out. That will require a 2 rope rap for both rappels, however. Jan 4, 2010
Joe Stern
Moab, Utah
Joe Stern   Moab, Utah
Anchor/rappel clarification. Just climbed the first pitch yesterday, which is approx. 110 feet long, up to the first big (first period?) tree. Immediately to the right of the tree there are 2 bolts, equipped to rappel. We rapped from these bolts all the way to the ground with a single 70m rope. Ours must have been a bit longer than Matthew's, as we had several feet piled on the ground on both ends. A fun pitch with emphasis on finger to tight hands gear. Sep 5, 2009
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
  5.6
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
  5.6
I finally climbed the third pitch...a worthwhile adventure climb.

From the bolted anchor atop P2, step right and follow a crack up to a giant oak tree. Climb through the tree and out onto the face to the right. Continue moving up and then right into the next major crack system. Follow this up to a another large oak tree with rappel slings. This tree marks the end of the 5th-class climbing. From here, a gully leads up toward the top of the wall.

It is recommended to make two short rappels from the big oak trees to get back to the top of P2.

The only unpleasant aspect of this pitch was the extraordinary number of ants at the final belay ledge (I was still finding them in my gear three days later). Jul 4, 2009
There is now a #1 Camalot stuck in the middle of the second pitch. Also, I've had ropes get stuck on the second pitch a couple of times.. Has anyone rapped off the top of Tree Route to the bolts at the top of the first pitch of Ending Crack? That seems like a more direct route down...

Also, with regard to length, be sure to bring enough gear. i've seen beginning leaders place too much pro early on and run short near the top. .. the first pitch takes mostly small stuff, larger pieces needed on second pitch. All in all, this is a great place to bring people for their first multipitch climb imho.I agree with Matt's rating, there are a couple of 5.6 moves at the start, then it's mostly a cruise.. Jun 6, 2009
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
  5.6
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
  5.6
My 60m rope will not get me within 15 feet of the ground when rapping the first pitch. The only way for me to do it with one rope was to rap onto a ledge high in the gully to the climber's-right of the route and then make a class-3 downclimb. UPDATE: the first pitch is 35m long--when rapping the first pitch with a 70m rope, the two ends hang inches above the ground.

Also, at last check, the 2nd pitch is over 150 feet long. The entire route is more like 300 feet long. UPDATE: the "second pitch" is closer to 170 or 180 feet long. Yesterday, I watched a trio try to climb from the first tree all the way to the rappel anchor with a 50 meter rope...they came up a full 30 feet short. Jun 11, 2007
climbed this in september. one thing to note is that gnats comeout when the wall goes into shade Jan 8, 2007
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
  5.6
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
  5.6
Beginners will find the first pitch quite challenging to adequately protect. The upper pitch swallows gear easily. Mar 16, 2006
The second rappel can be done with a single 60m rope. Aim a little left (looking into the rock) of the start. Feb 26, 2006