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Routes in Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)

Bee Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Black Wall Traverse V2 5+
Boss Man, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chips Block T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Edge of Night T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Ending Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Floyd T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Glory Days S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Half Ascent T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Lost in the Sespe T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Mrs. Murphy's Rusty Old Packard T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Pine to Pine T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pipe Cleaner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Roadside Cracks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tree Root T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wadka T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Wasp/The Sting, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
White Spider, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
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Type: Boulder, 480 ft
FA: Trad Bob
Page Views: 810 total · 18/month
Shared By: Alex Bury on Apr 1, 2015
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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The Black Wall Traverse is nearly five hundred feet long on mostly excellent sandstone, polished clean by eons of Sespe flooding. Easy climbing separates the various cruxes, which range from thin friction climbing to overhanging jugs. The traverse goes both ways.


The base of Black Wall, start either right of Tree Route or left of Floyd.




Alex Bury
Ojai, CA
Alex Bury   Ojai, CA
"This year's winter storm created a sandbar at the base of the Sespe Gorge. I cleaned vegetation to make a path along the bottom of the cliff.
The route starts at the Tree Root, goes under the platform, around the cave and all the way to the end of the wall under an oak tree...with the crux friction slab between the Ending Crack and the Pipe Cleaner, V2. After much practice, I completed the climb on 2/27/15. Try it ! It is great!"

-Trad Bob Apr 1, 2015
Tim King  
Yeah Bob!! This thing is tons of fun, love that water polished stone! Apr 7, 2015
Owen David
Los Angeles, Ca
Owen David   Los Angeles, Ca
Very fun traverse today! I stopped before the cave and reversed back to the start. On the return lap went low under the huecos, into the alcove then pulling through the roof (awesome movement)! Thanx to the group for the beta and courtesy spot! Fell at the crux first try, made second attempt and made it on reverse lap. Definitely winded by the end. Need to try the cave next time. Apr 24, 2016
Trevor Cox
Ojai, California
Trevor Cox   Ojai, California
Got to do this today in the company of Trad Bob himself! Fell twice on the friction slab crux, tried again from the start and ended up completing the whole thing. What a legendary climb.. distinct movement, right over the water, and loads of fun. Must try. Apr 15, 2017
Tim King  
Yeah, this thing is in awesome shape right now! Some sections above the beautiful creek, some nice sandy beaches should your legs pump out. There and back, work those calves! Yeeehaaw Apr 22, 2017

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