Type: Trad, 265 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,031 total · 20/month
Shared By: Alex Bury on Mar 31, 2015
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Lost in the Sespe features over two hundred feet of continuous climbing up a wild part of Black Wall. A 70m rope is required to complete the very long first pitch.

Start by two pipes on the wall and head up towards a very small pine. Climb left up the scruffy ramp, then back right to gain the right facing ribs. Thin gear in a horizontal protects the moves to the leaning corner. Follow the corner to the huge ledge above, make your own belay.
A second pitch of easy terrain leads to the backside walk-off.

  • This climb will earn an additional star or two when it cleans up, it features quality rock like its neighbors down the wall. Until then expect some scruff.
  • In the future, it may be possible to avoid the scruffy ramp by climbing directly, but this variation would require some cleaning. For now, take the ramp.
  • Careful use of slings is required to avoid rope drag on the first pitch.
  • Making this a safe lead requires the leader be solid at the grade and experienced at placing gear.

Location

Far left side of the wall. Left of Half Ascent, by the pipes.

Protection

Stoppers, small and medium cams (doubles), one large cam (BD #4 or #5), tcu's (singles), many slings

Photos