Lost in the Sespe
Avg: 2 from 2 votes
Routes in Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)
|Bee Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Black Wall Traverse V2 5+|
|Boss Man, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Chips Block T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13|
|Edge of Night T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R|
|Ending Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Floyd T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Glory Days S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Half Ascent T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R|
|Lost in the Sespe T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Mrs. Murphy's Rusty Old Packard T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13|
|Pine to Pine T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Pipe Cleaner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Roadside Cracks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Tree Root T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Wadka T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R|
|Wasp/The Sting, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R|
|White Spider, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R|
|Type:||Trad, 265 ft, 2 pitches|
|Page Views:||814 total, 25/month|
|Shared By:||Alex Bury on Mar 31, 2015|
|Admins:||andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionLost in the Sespe features over two hundred feet of continuous climbing up a wild part of Black Wall. A 70m rope is required to complete the very long first pitch.
Start by two pipes on the wall and head up towards a very small pine. Climb left up the scruffy ramp, then back right to gain the right facing ribs. Thin gear in a horizontal protects the moves to the leaning corner. Follow the corner to the huge ledge above, make your own belay.
A second pitch of easy terrain leads to the backside walk-off.
- This climb will earn an additional star or two when it cleans up, it features quality rock like its neighbors down the wall. Until then expect some scruff.
- In the future, it may be possible to avoid the scruffy ramp by climbing directly, but this variation would require some cleaning. For now, take the ramp.
- Careful use of slings is required to avoid rope drag on the first pitch.
- Making this a safe lead requires the leader be solid at the grade and experienced at placing gear.