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Routes in Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)

Bee Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Black Wall Traverse V2 5+
Boss Man, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chips Block T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Edge of Night T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Ending Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Floyd T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Glory Days S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Half Ascent T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Lost in the Sespe T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Mrs. Murphy's Rusty Old Packard T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Pine to Pine T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pipe Cleaner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Roadside Cracks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tree Root T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wadka T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Wasp/The Sting, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
White Spider, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Type: Trad, 265 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 814 total, 25/month
Shared By: Alex Bury on Mar 31, 2015
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Lost in the Sespe features over two hundred feet of continuous climbing up a wild part of Black Wall. A 70m rope is required to complete the very long first pitch.

Start by two pipes on the wall and head up towards a very small pine. Climb left up the scruffy ramp, then back right to gain the right facing ribs. Thin gear in a horizontal protects the moves to the leaning corner. Follow the corner to the huge ledge above, make your own belay.
A second pitch of easy terrain leads to the backside walk-off.

  • This climb will earn an additional star or two when it cleans up, it features quality rock like its neighbors down the wall. Until then expect some scruff.
  • In the future, it may be possible to avoid the scruffy ramp by climbing directly, but this variation would require some cleaning. For now, take the ramp.
  • Careful use of slings is required to avoid rope drag on the first pitch.
  • Making this a safe lead requires the leader be solid at the grade and experienced at placing gear.

Location

Far left side of the wall. Left of Half Ascent, by the pipes.

Protection

Stoppers, small and medium cams (doubles), one large cam (BD #4 or #5), tcu's (singles), many slings

Photos

Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
This is a very exciting addition to Sespe Gorge! Thank you, Alex.

It's worth noting that this route connects with the upper section of the Sespe Classic McTavish.
Mar 15, 2016
Great job keeping it Trad and pulling those sport bolt travesties. Mar 14, 2016
Alex Bury
Ojai, CA
 
Alex Bury   Ojai, CA
 
Dev. Notes:
This climb was reestablished in February 2015.
The ascent was in response to a line of bolts that recently appeared on the wall, terminating at a sport anchor mid-face. I led past the hardware, placing my own gear, and completed the line to the huge ledge above the corner. A second pitch took us to the rim, where we walked off the back. I returned a few days later and removed the bolts while on rappel.
Black Wall is a historic trad venue. It's important we respect this place and the adventurous style of climbing it represents.
Apr 1, 2015