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Routes in Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)

Bee Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Black Wall Traverse V2 5+
Boss Man, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chips Block T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Edge of Night T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Ending Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Floyd T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Glory Days S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Half Ascent T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Lost in the Sespe T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Mrs. Murphy's Rusty Old Packard T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Pine to Pine T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pipe Cleaner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Roadside Cracks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tree Root T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wadka T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Wasp/The Sting, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
White Spider, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Yvon Chouinard 1980
Page Views: 435 total · 11/month
Shared By: Chad Parker on Jul 6, 2015
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The crux is just over half way up just past a bolt where pro is almost impossible. The first half is mostly face climbing straight up to the bolt under the over hang or climb the crack on the left up and slightly right putting in pro in various cracks. After the bolt follow a crack up past a couple of trees to the anchor which is also the rap station for Ending Crack and Tree Root.

Location

The start is about 15 feet right of Ending Crack and about 20 feet left of Tree Root. You can only rap off with a 70m rope or use two ropes.

Protection

.3 to #2 cam. One set of nuts and runners to prevent rope drag.

Photos

Alex Bury
Ojai, CA
Alex Bury   Ojai, CA
FA Yvon Chouinard, 1980.
Thanks for posting, Chad. Let's rope up soon. Jul 6, 2015
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
Very common and worthwhile top-rope after rappelling from the bolted anchor to the right of Ending Crack. Jul 7, 2015
Chad Parker
Ventura, California
  5.7
Chad Parker   Ventura, California
  5.7
Awesome Alex and Matthew. Thank you. Jul 7, 2015

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