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Routes in Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)

Bee Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Black Wall Traverse V2 5+
Boss Man, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chips Block T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Edge of Night T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Ending Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Floyd T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Glory Days S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Half Ascent T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Lost in the Sespe T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Mrs. Murphy's Rusty Old Packard T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Pine to Pine T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pipe Cleaner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Roadside Cracks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tree Root T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wadka T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Wasp/The Sting, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
White Spider, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Brown & Baird, 1985
Page Views: 1,387 total · 17/month
Shared By: Richard Shore on Jun 13, 2011
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Across the road from the main Sespe Wall lies a steep 50 foot high face marked with two huecos on the bottom half.

Strenuous and dynamic climbing is the name of the game. The route starts with a run-and-jump to the first hueco, followed by a huge throw to the second hueco. Two more big moves up and then left lead to easier climbing and a vintage bolted anchor (1985 originals?).

The lead bolts are in decent shape, although the 4th bolt is missing a hanger. Use a wired stopper, rivet hanger, or bring along a hanger and crescent wrench :).

Protection

4 bolts (1 hangerless), 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

When I led this route in May, the lower two bolts looked good. The upper two did not have hangers, but did still have nuts attached. I happened to have an old SMC hanger and a small crescent wrench in my vehicle, and I replaced the third hanger while on lead. Exciting! If you climb this route, consider doing the same for the fourth bolt. I cinched a wired stopper around it instead. Jun 13, 2011
Neil Roessler
  5.11b/c R
Neil Roessler  
  5.11b/c R
Exciting route. extremely height dependent but a few fun moves leads to an unprotected slab. I would love to climb this in it's entirety but it needs two more hangers plus anchors. Jul 27, 2011
It's not "R rated" if you can think outside the box. Just because there are/were hangers doesn't mean you can't adequately protect this route. Consider it a sport climb for trad climbers. Jul 27, 2011
Mike Stearns  
 
This route is safe and really fun.

I slip knotted the hangerless fourth bolt with a dyneema sling. Definitely not the preferred method, but it worked in a pinch. The climbing eases significantly after the third bolt, so I didn't really feel it was a big deal.

I did notice the the fourth bolt jiggled in its hole. That is a little worrisome. Jul 16, 2012
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
I think it's high-time this route saw some TLC. A few bolt-replacements are in order. I'm not advocating bolting ADDING, just replacement. Metal and sandstone wear down over time. Bring your bolt kits, people.

Richard, I still have your bolt kit, so you're absolved from responsibility.

Ha! Jul 17, 2012
Serial Crusher
A house
Serial Crusher   A house
There is a hanger on bolt 4 now, as well as 2 newer bolts at the anchor with rap links. Every move went static for me and im 5'8. Feet felt secure the whole way up. Fun route! Aug 20, 2012
William Domhart
Ventucky, CA
 
William Domhart   Ventucky, CA
 
Thanks to whoever replaced the old bolts and anchor on this route. Fun, dynamic climbing at the bottom to a spicy slab move to gain the left side before easing up. This was my first 5.11 lead and I thought it was well protected. Height dependent as others have echoed. Feb 25, 2013
Hunter Bon
Slo, CA
 
Hunter Bon   Slo, CA
 
Rad route, not really height dependent ( im 5'5). all bolts are solid as well as anchors. Oct 14, 2013
Alex Bury
Ojai, CA
Alex Bury   Ojai, CA
Recent rockfall here has changed the base. Several fridge sized boulders spilled down the hillside and across the road. The arete was affected as well, while Roadside Cracks weren't changed.
More could cut loose so it would be wise to stay off Glory Days for a while until things get a chance to settle. Feb 12, 2016
Jon Hartmann
Ojai, CA
Jon Hartmann   Ojai, CA
I just climbed this yesterday. At 5'7" the reaches were at my absolute limit. But with the right feet and knowing that the moves have to be dynamic instead of static, it all works out. The bolts were in good shape and the rockfall at the base didn't affect the climb at all. Very fun route but thanks to my height id say it felt a bit harder that 5.11a. But then again, being my height makes a lot of routes feel harder. Regardless, very fun and well protected route and every stance was perfect for clipping from. Apr 27, 2016
Tim Maas
Isla Vista, CA
 
Tim Maas   Isla Vista, CA
 
The third bolt wobbled a little, had a loose nut, and a rusted SMC hangar. It made me uncomfortable leading. Not sure if it's actually ok though. If anyone knows please let me know. Sep 10, 2016

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