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Routes in Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)

Bee Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Black Wall Traverse V2 5+
Boss Man, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chips Block T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Edge of Night T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Ending Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Floyd T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Glory Days S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Half Ascent T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Lost in the Sespe T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Mrs. Murphy's Rusty Old Packard T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Pine to Pine T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pipe Cleaner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Roadside Cracks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tree Root T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wadka T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Wasp/The Sting, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
White Spider, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Type: Trad, 145 ft
FA: Unknown (mid-60s)
Page Views: 4,072 total, 28/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Feb 24, 2006
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Pipe Cleaner follows the third most-obvious line on the wall (in this case, left of Ending Crack). The route follows an undulating crack which occasionally masquerades as a shallow corner. The crack ranges from a few millimeters wide to about 8 inches (although no gear over 3-inches is absolutely necessary). The gear is good and the climbing is fairly sustained. Unlike Ending Crack, which has abundant face holds on either side, this route forces you to use the crack--expect plenty of fist jamming and even a little off-width climbing.

The top of the route features a bolted anchor--2 glued-in eye-bolts and a Fixe Triplex. It takes two ropes to reach the ground.

The most unusual feature of this route is that it seldom has any dry ground beneath it. This means that you will likely have to build a hanging belay in a large hole about 8 feet above the water. Keeping the rope dry is an excellent test of your rope management skills. When you pull the rappel lines, one of your ropes is surely getting wet.

Though not truly multi-pitch, I find the climbing on this route to be more enjoyable than Tree Route.

Protection

Gear: small to 4"

Fixed anchor on top.
alex carey
  5.6
alex carey  
  5.6
We were able to do a single 70M rope rape and it got us all the way to the bottom. No down climbing necessary for us. Howver I a have been told my 70Meter might be a tad long.

Pretty large rock just to the right of the start you can stand on to avoid water. We pulled the rope really slow and then tugged hard at the end and were able to avoid getting the rope all wet. Oct 2, 2017
Chad Parker
Ventura, California
 
Chad Parker   Ventura, California
 
The crux is about 25 feet up. The route is more like 135'. Two ropes to rap or if you rap on a 70m rope be prepared for about 20' of easy down climbing. There is dry ground now at the base of the climb. The creek is almost dried up now. Nov 6, 2015
Steven Wolpe
Ojai, CA
 
Steven Wolpe   Ojai, CA
 
Bottom of the route is totally dry. Had a blast on my second lead in the Sespe Gorge. The bolt hanger is missing at the anchor. Aug 26, 2015
Mtnfly
El Segundo, Ca
Mtnfly   El Segundo, Ca
I saw the same chalk mark today. It was not there 3 months ago. Route looked ok, I was wondering the same things???? Sep 9, 2011
Jon Hanlon
SLO
 
Jon Hanlon   SLO
 
Descend the gully if you want to keep your rope dry. Feb 26, 2006