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Routes in Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)

Bee Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Black Wall Traverse V2 5+
Boss Man, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chips Block T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Edge of Night T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Ending Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Floyd T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Glory Days S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Half Ascent T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Lost in the Sespe T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Mrs. Murphy's Rusty Old Packard T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Pine to Pine T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pipe Cleaner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Roadside Cracks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tree Root T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wadka T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Wasp/The Sting, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
White Spider, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,490 total, 16/month
Shared By: Alex Bury on May 23, 2010
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The most engaging line on the wall.
Steep and demanding climbing out of the cave leads to the long, low angle face above. The route is capped with a small roof, which contains several variations.

Although it is possible to link pitches, managing the lower and upper roofs is more reasonable when the climb is broken up into three pitches.

Pitch 1-
two options:
-The Wasp [5.8] lieback out the left side of the cave. The crux is getting into the lieback.
-The Sting [5.10+ R] big moves on overhanging terrain out the cave. The crux is pulling the lip.
Both first pitch variations end just above the cave at slung huecos.

Pitch 2-
Easy climbing follows a system of huecos upward. Continue upward until a crack opens up, offering better pro.
Belay at the small but sturdy oak, down and right from the high roof, or construct a belay.

Pitch 3-
Steep and exposed moves past a roof, 200+ feet off the deck. From the belay, head left to the roof and surmount it via one of three weaknesses.
The leftmost crack is 5.9, the middle is 5.8, and the rightmost is 5.7.
Getting to the 5.9 crack from the oak belay includes a great hand traverse beneath the roof.
A large oak with slings makes it easy to rappel back down and sample each top-out variation.

*tattered slings marking the top of pitch 1 on 'The Sting' replaced with black webbing and tan ring Oct. 19th 2013*

Location

The route begins in the back of the obvious cave left of the platform.

Protection

Double rack of cams; BD (#.3-3), One #4, nuts

This route is 100% bolt free.

Top-Roping:
A top-rope can be set up on The Sting by first climbing pitch one of The Wasp. At the slung huecos, equalize several more huecos to create a bomber TR setup. There is webbing and a fat ring to lower from when you are done.

Photos

andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
Way to get out there and tick off those old lines, Richard! May 12, 2011
Richard Shore
  5.10+ R
Richard Shore  
  5.10+ R
Heady lead. The R rating is very real; mostly at the start in my opinion. You are committed into the crux with the slung horn as the only pro that could (maybe) stop a fall. I placed a 2 c4 in a crack high up and left, but the rock was so sandy and poor that I don't think it would have held body weight. As as I got towards the lip of the cave, I looked down and saw the sling fall off the horn. FML. Felt like i was free-soloing with a rope. As I was clipping into the anchor I was stung by a bee - how fitting.

If you opt to do just the cave section and lower off, consider bringing a knife and a good length of natural-colored webbing to replace the aging slings. May 12, 2011