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Routes in Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)

Bee Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Black Wall Traverse V2 5+
Boss Man, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chips Block T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Edge of Night T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Ending Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Floyd T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Glory Days S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Half Ascent T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Lost in the Sespe T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Mrs. Murphy's Rusty Old Packard T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Pine to Pine T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pipe Cleaner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Roadside Cracks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tree Root T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wadka T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Wasp/The Sting, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
White Spider, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,215 total, 12/month
Shared By: andy patterson on Nov 12, 2009
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This small crag has a 5.11 face climb on the far (climber's) left, which I believe was first bagged by Kevin Brown. Currently, I don't think there is an anchor on top, so you have to scramble (not recommended) or rappel from a tree. The face of the crag that overlooks the road touts several auspicious cracks, the leftmost being the hardest and most aesthetic. The aforementioned crack climb is actually quite fierce, and can be likened to bouldering with a rack and rope. Still, the climbing is sustained, steep, and varied—all in a mere 25-30 feet.

Location

Right across the road from the Black Wall.

Protection

The fissures accept a wide range of gear, and since they are not very long, you can make a fairly accurate appraisal of the cracks from the ground. Fingers to wide hands should protect everything.

Photos

Alex Bury
Ojai, CA
Alex Bury   Ojai, CA
It isn't new, it was bolted over 20 years ago.
As it stands it's a solid 11. It used to be a 12 before someone chipped it into submission. Oct 2, 2017
Christian B
West Hills, California
Christian B   West Hills, California
whats the new bolted climb that starts facing the road? Oct 1, 2017
Serial Crusher
A house
Serial Crusher   A house
Fun cracks. Did the middle one today but the rock was still wet from the recent snow. Pretty sketchy when wet, both big blocks in the crack were moving fully and ready to come out if pulled on at all outward rendering gear useless and a belayer possibly smashed. They are seriously loose - better as a TR. Be Careful. Jan 1, 2013
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
Awesome story. That's pretty good beta, actually. Who says you can't get a running start? Jan 15, 2012
haha--i remember a group of us whacking at this thing quite awhile ago--spent the better part of two hours trying to get that first move. then mike hearn (anyone remember him?) backed off to the other side of hwy. 33 and got a full-speed running start to a flying leap and nailed it. Jan 15, 2012
Richard Shore
  5.10+
Richard Shore  
  5.10+
fun but short lines. The right line is a good warmup lead (5.8/9), the left line is the hard (5.10+) and awesome one. A 4" piece is good to have along. The middle crack is a decent TR, but placing gear behind the loose blocks and flakes is not advised. Jun 6, 2011