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Routes in Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)

Bee Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Black Wall Traverse V2 5+
Boss Man, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chips Block T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Edge of Night T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Ending Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Floyd T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Glory Days S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Half Ascent T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Lost in the Sespe T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Mrs. Murphy's Rusty Old Packard T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Pine to Pine T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pipe Cleaner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Roadside Cracks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tree Root T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wadka T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Wasp/The Sting, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
White Spider, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 431 total · 46/month
Shared By: Alex Bury on Apr 9, 2017
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A 300ft tall sandstone odyssey. Pine to Pine takes the most direct line up the tallest part of the wall.

Low traffic has left the route dirty with loose rock and flakes still lurking, and the higher you climb the dirtier it gets. However, climbers willing to explore the route will find great protection the entire way.

Pitch 1 (120') - Climb directly to the clump of bushes partway up the wall. Sling stout bushes for the belay.
Pitch 2 (180') - Head upward and slightly right, moving toward the large tree at the top of the wall. In its current condition, this pitch might be best broken in two.

Two double rope rap's will get you back to the deck.

Location

From the start of Tree Route, scramble up and right. The start is marked by a large tree on a ledge.

Protection

Cams to 3"
Stoppers

Photos

Radical, nice work!! Apr 14, 2017
Alex Bury
Ojai, CA
 
Alex Bury   Ojai, CA
 
Pine to Pine will likely one day join its neighbors to the left as a highly appreciated local classic. It affords great pro the entire way and will clean up to be just as solid as Ending Crack and Tree Route.

For now the climb offers a much different experience than those climbs, strictly due to the lack of traffic. I encourage adventurous locals and visitors alike to give it a try. Come prepared to excavate some placements and be careful with what you pull on. Apr 9, 2017