Elevation: 1,522 ft
GPS: 36.084, -121.401 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 35,962 total · 179/month
Shared By: Kristin McNamara on Jan 11, 2004
Admins: andy patterson, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description

It was a warm and sunny spring day. My partner and I were looking to tick off every area in the Slater guidebook, so we decided that today would be the day to check out Wagon Caves. The drive was beautiful, fields full of washes of green and purple, red and yellow . . . the approach to this area is wonderful.

When you get there you'll find this amazing outcropping of sandstone and hueco features. But don't get excited!! Many of the routes you'd find in the guidebook have been chopped! You'll find some TR anchors if you look hard enough, some hangerless bolts, and a few routes who have been untouched. It's a crap shoot.

But it sure is pretty! Bring picnic supplies and your significant other for a good time!

Update: All the climbs listed have Top Rope anchors that are in good condition. The only leads in the area currently are Mavericks, Talking Tower, and Back Talk (on The Talking Tower). The lead bolts on New-tist Colony are hangerless.

If you visit this area please tread lightly. It is an awesome wilderness climbing area. Your actions reflect on others and speak volumes to land managers. If you bolt please camoflage the bolts and use low profile Rap anchors if you place them.

Update 2: (T. Slater, 1/23/06)
There is a bolting ban at Wagon Caves. Current anchors can be maintained, but that is it. Newtist Colony has hangers now, and the beach has TR anchors. I have been working with Brenda at the FS. It IS a sensitive site (she has been working between me and the tribe) so we need to be cool while out there. It is what it is, and nobody should go out there with a drill.

Getting There

From Highway 101 going north from San Luis Obispo, exit at Jolon (country road G-18). Head west under the overpass toward Fort Hunter Ligget. You'll go about 20 miles to the Mission road junction. There may or may not be a sign. Turn left onto this road and you'll reach the military's gate. Show them license and registration and head into the area.

Once you pass through the front gate you follow Mission Rd. Nacimiento-Ferguson Rd. will branch out on the left but keep going straight through the main part of the base. Look for Del Ventura on your left after you pass the Recreation center (large white building) on your right. It is a five way intersection. Del Ventura is the second one going left. The Mission shouldbe strasight ahead just before you turn left. There will be a sign indicating that you need an National Forest Adventure Pass and within a mile you will ford the San Antonio River. Keep traveling on Del Ventura.

After the second ford it will become Milpitas Rd. This will lead you all the way to the Wagon Caves. You will pass a guard shack on your right (empty) and cross a cattle guard. This is the boundary of military property. The Wagon Caves are less than a mile from the boundary of the Base. You will see them on your left as you approach. There is a spacious turnout to use.

If you would like to camp you can drive another mile and take the dirt road on your left to some primitive/unimproved sites. There are no facilities here. Or you can travel another 5 miles to Santa Lucia Memorial Park (aka The Indians). The only facilities here are a pit toilet and picnic tables. No water is availible. Designated Campsites.

22 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Wagon Caves

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
Lost
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 9
Mavericks
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Lost Lost Boulders
 5
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Mavericks Mavericks
 9
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, TR
More Classic Climbs in Wagon Caves »

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