To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments
so you only print what you need.
Wagon Caves
California
> Central Coast
Description
It was a warm and sunny spring day. My partner and I were looking to tick off every area in the Slater guidebook, so we decided that today would be the day to check out Wagon Caves. The drive was beautiful, fields full of washes of green and purple, red and yellow . . . the approach to this area is wonderful.
When you get there you'll find this amazing outcropping of sandstone and hueco features. But don't get excited!! Many of the routes you'd find in the guidebook have been chopped! You'll find some TR anchors if you look hard enough, some hangerless bolts, and a few routes who have been untouched. It's a crap shoot.
But it sure is pretty! Bring picnic supplies and your significant other for a good time!
Update: All the climbs listed have Top Rope anchors that are in good condition. The only leads in the area currently are Mavericks, Talking Tower, and Back Talk (on The Talking Tower). The lead bolts on New-tist Colony are hangerless.
If you visit this area please tread lightly. It is an awesome wilderness climbing area. Your actions reflect on others and speak volumes to land managers. If you bolt please camoflage the bolts and use low profile Rap anchors if you place them.
Update 2: (T. Slater, 1/23/06)
There is a bolting ban at Wagon Caves. Current anchors can be maintained, but that is it. Newtist Colony has hangers now, and the beach has TR anchors. I have been working with Brenda at the FS. It IS a sensitive site (she has been working between me and the tribe) so we need to be cool while out there. It is what it is, and nobody should go out there with a drill.
Getting There
From Highway 101 going north from San Luis Obispo, exit at Jolon (country road G-18). Head west under the overpass toward Fort Hunter Ligget. You'll go about 20 miles to the Mission road junction. There may or may not be a sign. Turn left onto this road and you'll reach the military's gate. Show them license and registration and head into the area.
Once you pass through the front gate you follow Mission Rd. Nacimiento-Ferguson Rd. will branch out on the left but keep going straight through the main part of the base. Look for Del Ventura on your left after you pass the Recreation center (large white building) on your right. It is a five way intersection. Del Ventura is the second one going left. The Mission shouldbe strasight ahead just before you turn left. There will be a sign indicating that you need an National Forest Adventure Pass and within a mile you will ford the San Antonio River. Keep traveling on Del Ventura.
After the second ford it will become Milpitas Rd. This will lead you all the way to the Wagon Caves. You will pass a guard shack on your right (empty) and cross a cattle guard. This is the boundary of military property. The Wagon Caves are less than a mile from the boundary of the Base. You will see them on your left as you approach. There is a spacious turnout to use.
If you would like to camp you can drive another mile and take the dirt road on your left to some primitive/unimproved sites. There are no facilities here. Or you can travel another 5 miles to Santa Lucia Memorial Park (aka The Indians). The only facilities here are a pit toilet and picnic tables. No water is availible. Designated Campsites.
![Spencer on "Lost" 5.8, Lost Boulders.]()
[Hide Photo] Spencer on "Lost" 5.8, Lost Boulders.
![Photo taken from the top of The Beach of the major areas: (1) The Beach, (2) Mavericks, (3) Newt Wall, (4) Talking Tower]()
[Hide Photo] Photo taken from the top of The Beach of the major areas: (1) The Beach, (2) Mavericks, (3) Newt Wall, (4) Talking Tower
![This is Ronnie Miller on Mavericks(11c) looking east with Beach Wall behind. Taken in 2003. Note the TR anchors hanging from Beach Wall.]()
[Hide Photo] This is Ronnie Miller on Mavericks(11c) looking east with Beach Wall behind. Taken in 2003. Note the TR anchors hanging from Beach Wall.
![Newt Wall, biggest wall there.]()
[Hide Photo] Newt Wall, biggest wall there.
![An essential climb if you make the trip. Newtist Colony 5.8.]()
[Hide Photo] An essential climb if you make the trip. Newtist Colony 5.8.
![Lost Boulders, 5.8, 3 shinny bolts.]()
[Hide Photo] Lost Boulders, 5.8, 3 shinny bolts.
Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
SLO, CA
About a year or so ago i spoke with Slater's wife about it. She said it was not the Indians, but a very old-school climber that didn't believe in bolts. She said that the climber has since left the area and that she would be thrilled if someone re-bolted it. I also spoke to a FS ranger and they said they didn't believe it was an "Indian Sacred Ground" issue. I was up there a few months ago with Ronnie Miller on Mavericks and the bolts seemed to be in pretty good shape on that climb...maybe they were too hard for the old-school guy to reach and chop.:) Jan 21, 2004
California
The Indians is a completely different area apporxiamtely 5 miles up the road, near the trailhead to Junipero Serra Peak. Feb 28, 2004
Two active Beehives as of 4/8/07, one on small dome's south face that is in front of Tiny Bubbles (The Beach). The other is on the approach trail to The Beach, but can be skirted by going left and around the hive. Apr 9, 2007
Sedona
I haven't been out there since 2008 or so.
If the directions have changed, maybe we can get the above directions corrected.
thanks, John Mar 5, 2013
waterdata.usgs.gov/ca/nwis/…. I know 30 cfs is a safe level. There is an alternative route that involves red grade road and one other ( I can't remember the name) both ends of this "alternative way" have signs that they are for authorized vehicles only. I haven't tried it but I've heard rumors of others who have. The base seems quite busy right now, I don't think I'd chance it until things quiet down. Mar 8, 2013
Getting there: You will have cell service and (surprisingly) 3G coverage at Wagon Caves and throughout the whole drive out there. With that said, I suggest typing in the coordinates for wagon caves and following that:
36.084110,-121.401029
Approaches and trails: Ambiguous at best. Trails getting into the main section were scattered and sporadic. Best bet: track. We followed shoe prints in the sand to get inside wagon caves. Once inside, we used major land marks to get to where we needed to be I.E:
The talking tower spire:
very easy to see once inside, towards SW.
The pine tree in front of mavericks:
there are few pine trees inside the crag itself, thus making this an easy waypoint, towards the NW.
the meadow behind Newt Wall as the center to get to all the crags.
It is centrally located and wide open. From there you can access the beach, mavericks, and newt wall within 5 minutes.
Conditions:
Crag: Newt Wall
Anchors in great shape, there is a bolted (hangers) assent up Newtist Colony (5).
Overall a great climb.
Crag: Talking Towers
Strange climb, but still worthy for the hike and for a 5.8 lead. There are no rings at anchor(s), only ONE larger hanger that can support a rope running through it!
Crag: The Beach
BRING LONG SLINGS TO TOP ROPE!!! Anchors are at least 12 feet from nearest lip. We were all bummed that we couldn't climb this crag as we did not have the equipment. There is however a bolted (hangers) route up "Submarine Tango" (4). Newer looking bolts; I thought there was a ban?
Crag: Mavericks
Awesome, amazing, and hard. There are anchors at top, thus allowing one to clean, or to set draws (and hang the long sling to over the lip for protection to get over the roof). The only worrisome factor is hanger #3. It is a rusted state.
Overall a great trip. It is possible to camp, have campfires, and operate a stove at wagon caves if you have the permit. I, however, suggest camping at Lake San Antonio North Shore before heading out there ($20-30). Taking a dip in the lake is a great start to your adventure. as far as wagon caves goes, bring bug spray, plenty of sun screen, and the mindset to climb strange new features (huecos galore!) on the poorer rock that is sandstone.
SLO
Atascadero
Portland Oregon
Atascadero
I have read over the Milpitas Special Interest Management Plan and "rock climbing" is listed as a known and accepted use within the area.
I have also looked through the Los Padres National Forest Management Plan and climbing is also listed as "acceptable" in that document. I looked through and ran searches on the Los Padres management plan documents and found multiple instances where rock climbing was mentioned as an acceptable use of areas within the National Forest. There were no instances of "bolts", "bolting", "drill", or "drilling" mentioned with regard to rock climbing in the ROD for the 'Los Padres NF Management Plan' nor in the 'Los Padres NF Land Management Plan Part 2-Strategy'.
I have also contacted the Access Fund regarding any ban they may be aware of. They have nothing on record about it.
As of my last correspondence with the Assistant Director things were looking up. I will update further when I hear anything. Mar 28, 2017
Portland Oregon
Atascadero
Portland Oregon
Templeton
Templeton
Tofino, BC
Atascadero
Sunnyvale, CA
Austin, TX
Tempe