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Routes in The Beach

Ancient Sea TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Babewatch TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Deep Throat Nine TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Grant's Solo TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Line in the Sand TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sexy Sirens TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Submarine Tango TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tiny Bubbles TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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This rock is located in the little valley directly behind Wagon Caves Wall. It is face climbing with small huecos everywhere. The rock surface is kind of granular but back when more climbing was done in the area, it was pretty clean. Sometimes during the winter, sand is washed off the top of the rock and into the huecos, but it is not a serious problem.

Getting There

From the Turnout/Parking Lot follow the trail that leads south long the stream. It will cross the stream and then fork, go right for the beach go straight for The Talking Tower and Newt Wall. For the right fork go up the streamlet and mantle the rock on the right side of the usually dry waterfall. follow the faint trail/streambedinto the middle of the small meadow. branch right (north) and trend along the rock. The Holy Wall will be on your right go another 250ft and Mavericks will be on your left the beach will be straight ahead, 100ft away.

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whoever chopped the bolts missed one on the "sexy siren" route. there is one bolt , and only one , about 20 feet up so there is still lead stuff at the Beach. TR anchors are anywhere from 10 -20 feet back from the top outs so bring long runners . Overall the Beach is kind of a lame wall , the routes are short , a bit dirty , and holds regularly break , dont make visiting this wall your sole purpose for going to wagon caves. Nov 7, 2005
RE: The Beach.The Beach is what it is. It is a 25 high TR wall on soft sandstone.Some love it and some don't.It was a lot more fun when the routes were leads.Wagon Caves, by and large, is soft sandstone. Not great rock. There are a few exceptions.If you go there, enjoy the diversity of it, the scenery, and wilderness feel. If you're going for rock quality, go to the morros.The bolts were chopped ten years ago.New anchors appeared, thankfully, because there is now a ban on bolting at Wagon Caves.

Mavericks, Newtist Colony, Talking Tower, and Lost are all lead routes with pretty good rock.

On a general note, it'd be great if we could use this site as a place to offer positive comments and keep each other informed on important issues like access or safety, or new route development.

Off topic: I want to also thank those climbers who got involved with Romualdo, who wrote letters, and who called in to the radio show. Mike and I have a meeting with all the big wigs on December 14th. We'll keep you posted on the outcome. It may end there, or the fight may rage on.

Tom Slater

Nov 10, 2005
In between Grant's solo and Grant's solo OW, I solo'd a line this weekend 4/8/07. It starts on Grant's solo start moves, but then traverses right on the easiest terrain, and moves up and right into the darkest patch of moss and more or less straight up from there.

New? old?

Too bad there are no anchors over on that side of the wall. Apr 9, 2007

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