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Routes in The Beach

Ancient Sea TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Babewatch TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Deep Throat Nine TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Grant's Solo TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Line in the Sand TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sexy Sirens TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Submarine Tango TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tiny Bubbles TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: TR, 40 ft
FA: Slater
Page Views: 71 total, 0/month
Shared By: Kristin McNamara on Feb 6, 2004
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Balancy start with a nice problem lower down.

Protection

Two bolt anchor.

Photos

Aaron Formella
Atascadero, CA
Aaron Formella   Atascadero, CA
This climb is missing a bolt near the top. Bolt 3 or 4 I think. Not sure why, but it wasn't replaced when this route was rebolted. Be ready to run it out a bit to the last bolt. Feb 22, 2016
This route has shiny lead bolts but no top anchor.
Your choices for an anchor are:
A) very strange and off to side directional using the top bolt from this route and the anchor from Ancient Sea.
B) Place then equalize a variety of cams and tri-cams in the pocketed soft stone above
C) sling a large rock 50 ft back of the edge and equalize it with the last bolt on the route.

Either way it is worth the trouble for a fun route. Mar 8, 2013