Mavericks

Killer route . Overhanging the whole way . If you pre-clip draws from the anchors so that they hang past the lip as it says to do in the Slater guide then i guess you don't have to pull the final roof . some of the holds will probably break eventually , the large flakes on the route flex alot but there are tons of other holds to grab . Well bolted and safe..... Nov 10, 2005

this route (and practically all the good climbing att the wagon caves) are found ON TOP of the large rock formation you can see from the parking lot. in order to get on top you should hike about 1/4 mile along the left side of the formation (east side) and then start trending up the rocks by whatever means possible. once on top of the formation head north (back towards the parking lot) in order to find the goods. Jun 15, 2013

Has anyone pulled over the lip and topped out on Mavericks? To do so looks possible but at a much harder grade. Bolt 3 on this route looks like it needs replacement; the hanger is rusty but I couldn't tell if the bolt is as well. Nov 16, 2013

The rusty old MHE hanger on bolt 3 was replaced yesterday, February 21st, 2016, with a bomber Metolius hanger. It was there for 19 years but appears decades older than its nearby contemporaries. The bolt appears to still be in good shape and safe for many more falls and years to come. I'm guessing the bolt is a carbon steel Hilti KB3, which are specified to be torques to 20 ft lbs. The nut was re-tightened to a torque of 20 ft-lbs. I think most 3/8" diameter carbon steel bolts are specified to be torqued at 20 or 25 ft-lbs, so to be safe, since it's an unknown bolt, it was tightened at the lower max rating and enough to firmly set the hanger in place. Over-tightening can compromise or break a bolt. Since the route trends to the right after this bolt, a fall would not result in twisting the hanger and loosening the nut, as would be the case in a fall from the left. The bolt was vigorously bounce-tested afterward and John Hickey showed up and led the route, and 'tested' the new bolt hanger with a lead fall (he redpointed it just a little while later and free-soloed 'Grant's Offwidth' nearby). Hopefully from now on, no one will have that sinking feeling of their confidence pooling in the bottom of their stomach as they clip a rusty old hanger in preparation for the crux immediately above. Lead on!


Eventually, all the bolts will need to be replaced, ideally with some glue-ins. When the time comes, to work on bolt 3, the small pocket right of the bolt takes a purple link-cam (0.4 to 0.5 BD) and a gold link cam (#2 BD) fits in the large pocket to 5 O'clock of the bolt. Feb 22, 2016

Awesome route! By far the most fun you can have on good bolts around SLO. If you are following the route, its very difficult to get back on if you come off, even more reason to go for this fun and safe lead. Pre build the anchor and hang it over the void, topping this thing out would be an ordeal. Tall people will find the crux easier, but still a solid route. Well worth the drive, a must do if you climb in the area. Feb 28, 2016

Such a cool route in such a great location! I was supremely stoked to finally redpoint this route and cannot wait to go back for another go. All the bolts are in great condition, thanks Aaron. Because of the overhanging nature of this one, it is really a safe fall and worth getting on if for no other reason than to attempt the crux move and take a great swing. Jun 14, 2016