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Routes in Newt Rock

Amphibian Anarchy TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lizard Conspiracy, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Newt-ist Colony S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, TR, 50 ft
FA: Slater, Podhorsky
Page Views: 589 total, 3/month
Shared By: Kristin McNamara on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Another sandstone face route.

Protection

The lead bolts are hangerless. The Top Rope two bolt anchor is in place.
A Johnson
Paso Robles
 
A Johnson   Paso Robles
 
First time back this year and sure enough the lower two nuts were very loose on the bolts. The bolts themselves are sturdy feeling and the hangars are newish so no real concern, but be sure to tighten a loose nut at least by hand to keep the hangar on. I brought a wrench to get it snug knowing that this is a common problem on this route. I hand tightened the nuts on the bottom two hangars, and then gave a 1/4 turn with the wrench. The lowest one was almost completely off. Anyone know how and why they would get so loose? This area doesn't get a ton of traffic. Mar 13, 2017
A Johnson
Paso Robles
 
A Johnson   Paso Robles
 
Second bolt was very loose but we came prepared to tighten them. Last time I was here they were all spinning. This time around though, someone beat me to it! All besides the second were sturdy and tight. Feb 25, 2016
Chris Blanchard
Anacortes, WA
 
Chris Blanchard   Anacortes, WA
 
Second bolt was completely loose .. Tightened it best I could with my hands but it certainly needs fixing - rest were good. Sep 3, 2012
Slater
 
Slater  
 
The longest lead at Wagon Caves. The bolts were put back in in 2004. Let's hope they stay there. All three routes on this rock are a lot of fun. The anchors were placed so close to the edge to deter non-climbers from tampering with them. Use caution, and it is no big deal.
Note: I knocked the fingernail clean off my finger while hammering in the anchors.
I had one eye on the void and one eye on the rock, trying to find a solid place to put in a bolt... bam bam bam smush. OUCH. Jan 23, 2006
The top anchors to this climb and the others on Newt Wall are intact, both are two bolts with hangers. They are a little close to the edge.Bring a daisy chain to be safe when setting a top rope. The lead bolts for The New-tist Colony are hangerless but not chopped. Feb 16, 2004