Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,025 total · 43/month
Shared By: JSlack on Nov 16, 2009
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

58 Opinions

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Start on obvious edges at head height then move up and left to a spicy top-out.


Crash Pads


Colin Brochard
Colin Brochard   Austin
Probably the coolest boulder I've ever done. Classic moves on good holds and an adrenaline kick at the top every time Nov 22, 2010
Trevor V.
Santa Barbara, Ca
Trevor V.   Santa Barbara, Ca
Great problem with an on par spicy topout. Nov 10, 2011
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
Do yourself a favor and top it out straight. The "left" topout still makes you squirm, but the direct line is sooo good. Nov 14, 2011
The top moves are definitely scary, and the foot beta might be different depending on how tall you are... Paul W., I don't know you'll ever see this, but thanks for your beta and spot. Right after you left, I sent the problem because of your help. Dec 4, 2011
Tom Shank
Santa Barbara, CA
Tom Shank   Santa Barbara, CA
Finally finished this today, great problem for me. What's the consensus on the top outs? Going left is acceptable, just takes less cajones than going straight up? Oct 15, 2012
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
Both are acceptable, in my opinion. I know climbers who are terrified to go left, but comfortable with the straight up version, and vice versa. Nice work! Oct 15, 2012
Topping out left is not only acceptable but the original, and I still think the best, line. I always thought it flows better since you're heading up and left the whole time anyways. The direct top-out never felt as 'elegant' to me. I haven't been up there in a while but the tree out left is less intrusive now making the left exit a bit less scary than it used to be. I remember watching Micah get ejected from the top and falling sideways through the tree many years ago. He was pretty scratched up.

Would be a five star problem anywhere in the world no matter how you top it out. Oct 16, 2012
Tim King  
Yeah this is one of my favorite at the Yard (or anywhere I've been for that matter)! Originally I did the left top out, but went back for the direct. I enjoy and do both, whatever feels natural at the moment, although I think the left is actually a bit scarier as if you come off there you're more sideways (and have potential to fall into the bush). Just don't come off and you're fine! Dec 2, 2012
Alan Zhan
Seattle, WA
Alan Zhan   Seattle, WA
In my opinion the proudest line in Santa Barbara (at least that I have done). Powerful lower moves up to a committing topout. Hardest part for me was definitely the bottom sequence up to deadpointing the jug. Apr 15, 2014
one of those climbers who got terrified trying to go left, but cruised it smoothly when topping out directly. commit and it's not so bad! great problem Apr 2, 2017