Santa Barbara Bouldering Climbing

- Jul 31, 2011

Santa Barbara from Trevor Vita on Vimeo.


Includes:

Debra (V8-9)
Cradlerock Style (V7)
Soot Patrol (V7)
Smooth Criminal (V6)
Fritz Bulge (V6)
Gangster Hippie (V6-7)
Dancing Outlaw (V8)
She Had Nothing To Do With (V6)
Big Deal (V6)
Fred Nicole Project (V9) Jun 16, 2012

Good work on getting out there and filming! You chose some of my favorite problems. In particular, way to go with the Fred Nicole line. Bernd, Will, and I kinda lost psyche on that thing, especially since it was waaay dirty when we first tried it. That, and we always tried to do it as the full traverse, from the sit-start of Fritz Bulge.

Also:

Soot Patrol: V7
Big Deal: V5

That's O11 speaking, and my opinion—for what it's worth. Jun 18, 2012

Soot Patrol was a typo thanks for catching that. V7 for sure. I think I put V7 in the video...hopefully. I don't have a good opinion on big deal. So v5 sounds fine to me haha. Thanks for the input. Jun 18, 2012

Well done vid.

FYI: She Had Nothing To Do With It goes up the left side of the arete. Hard and sort of scary last move.

And pull your pants up. Jun 18, 2012

Thanks bob, could never figure out how that climb worked.....also can never find pants that fit. Haha Jun 18, 2012

Nice video. I watched in HD and could see the nasty santa barbara black flies were present for some of those ascents. Well done. Jun 19, 2012

Has anyone ever put up stuff on the opposite wall facing the Coffee Boulder on Sling Shot side? We met some guys there and put up some routes on the left and right face. The one in the pic is a smooth, fun line that I can't imagine someone not having done it. However, i don't have O11, so I can't check it out.

Anyway, if not, check it out, good warm up, gets your nerves going on something high, but not a sketchy top out. Starts right in front of man in picture, moves left of hole, straight up and slightly right from there.



Also, I found no trash or signs of fire up there. Esta bien. Oct 15, 2012

First things first, Tom:

Get O11.

Way to be psyched. Oct 15, 2012

Alright, the mountain project app just isn't going to cut it, time to get the libretto and start singing. Thanks Andy. Oct 16, 2012

Hey Guys,

I noticed that a bunch of SB Bouldering videos have been posted on this guy's website:
juiced-sbbouldering.blogspo…

I watched a few and I realized that I have no idea where 90% of these things are. He refers to a "King's Landing" bouldering area which I think is nearby Lizard's Mouth.

Anybody have any info? I was thinking it might be nice to put up some of the problems on MP.

On a related note, it has been almost a decade since O11 came out and there has been some definite evolution in the SB bouldering scene (the fire in the Yard comes to mind). Has anyone had any impetus to write a new guidebook?

Cheers Dec 25, 2012

Christ almighty, the layout and font on that blog would make Stevie Wonder cringe. I clicked straight through to his Vimeo page before I stuck a fork in my eyes.

On the O11 note: I will be sold out by the end of next year. Probably give it 6-8 months after that before they're gone from store bookshelves. There is a ZERO percent chance that I will either update or spend my hard earned dollars on another reprint. What that means is that someone needs to step up and start working on a new guide now, cause it's going to take you a lot longer than you think it will. Make it fun and make it good! Dec 25, 2012

Both Kelly L. and I have amassed information and topos. Kelly leans towards the bouldering stuff. I have loads of info about local pebble-wrestling (new and old), and a good chunk of topos for obscure new routes. Bob is right: the workload is large, the rewards are few, and the labor must be out of pure love for the areas (or out of a severely deranged mental disposition).

Bob, you do realize you will be the de facto editor, right? Sorry. Dec 25, 2012

Hey Andy,

Let me know if you need a hand organizing a new guide. I'd be stoked to help, and I'm always up for meandering around the SB mountains. Fair warning: I'm almost exclusively a boulderer nowadays.

What software are you using for the topos? I was thinking of making one for Potter's and so I might as well try to make it similar to what you have. Dec 26, 2012

I've been psyched on the Potter's scene, and definitely seeing a lot of potential up there. Recently got my camera working again so I've been wandering around on off days gathering high res shots of various areas and boulders. While I don't think I have quite the knowledge or skills to put everything together, I'm amped up and willing to help out. My mapping skills are nil, but I'm fairly computer savvy and wouldn't have much trouble making a layout and putting everything together.

I'm pretty sure the King's Landing area he refers to in the videos is the slanted boulders just over the hill a ways when looking out from the mouth at Lizards Mouth. I know I've been to the one he refers to as 'The Blue Sky project' (though some holds had broken) and seen a few others in that area, though the approach to the further stuff isn't that fun.
(Edit: Here's a pictures posted on that Juicy site that gives of a view of 'Kings Landing': 1.bp.blogspot.com/-AFZlEmRz… I'm almost positive the overhang on the left side of the picture is the 'Blue Sky project', the traverse and dyno is on that big overhanging blob boulder in the center of the picture).

There's also a few good scattered problems at the cluster of boulders down below Lizards Mouth towards the ocean (can be seen in the picture above on the far right; not sure what people refer to that area as, but the approach trail is really good). And I've got a smattering of obscure problems and projects around at the Mouth and the Yard. Even a few bonus problems at Skofield Park of all places. Let me know how we can best pool our efforts and make somethin' happen. And like Bob says, make it fun. :)

Dec 26, 2012

Hodge podge ramble shamble SB pebble wrestling video:
Santa Barbara's Got Bouldering from Tking on Vimeo.
Problems:
The Font Problem
Smooth Criminal
The Rats of Nimh
The Dancing Outlaw
Breathless
Little Bear
21 and Up
Parental Discretion
Debra Jan 26, 2013

West Camino Cielo could actually have it's own guidebook . Noir Boulders, Windermire Boulders, Monkey Boulders, Gorilla Farm, Road Kill Boulder, Obsevation Area, The Playground, The Brickyard,Jah Hole, Little Zion, Lion's Den, Lizard's Mouth, The Gift Area, Wild West Boulders, Hall of Shadows( King's Landing), Tequilla Sunset Area and the End of the World Area are all established areas with good problems. Unfortunetly, it would be a lot of work to actually make topos of the problems along with maps to get people to these areas. Many of the trails have changed or have been blocked by new vegetation growth over the years too, so what may look like new terrain, probably has had visitors in the past. Hopefully these areas will be publicized some time soon. May 10, 2013

This might help with some of the confusion .

May 14, 2013

The Brickyard: Santa Barbara

vimeo.com/40849723

CRUXmedia and HairlessMonkeyFilms bring you the second episode of "Crimpin' Aint Easy." Episode 2 was shot on location at The Brickyard in the one and only Santa Barbara, California and follows climbers Kyle and Jake Olsen as they go bouldering on some local problems. Not much better than a day rock climbing...

The Extremist V1
South Street V4
Watch The Dog V5
Soot Patrol V7 / V3 (V7 finishes over lip)
Smooth Criminal V6 Jul 2, 2013

vimeo.com/84266116 Jan 20, 2014

Who wants to spill the beans on the massive boulder field between Windermire and the brickyard? Kelly's comment above mentioned a few areas that no one I have talked to knows about. Anyone want to share some history? Regardless, I will be headed out there for some adventure this week. May 30, 2015

I've definitely scoped the area between Windermere and The Brickyard. It's cool, remote, and adventurous—but most of the rock is pretty bad. Sure, there are boulder problems to be had, but I just couldn't find anything that would get me psyched to come back. I'm sure Kelly has explored more than me, however. Perhaps he knows where the goods are. May 30, 2015

Hey folks. My wife and I will be in the SB area as part of a honeymoon climbing trip around CA this coming January and are just wondering if any locals could share a few tips of best places to boulder? I've got the Lizard Mouth app... any other areas worth checking out? We will be in the local for 10 days before heading to Bishop.

Cheers
Darren Jul 17, 2015

In general how long should I be waiting before climbing here after rain, especially the shady places like Brickyard? I was waiting 3 days but the last time I went up there the ground was still wet in spots and could pretty much only do mantle problems ha. Mainly at Skofield, LM, and the Brickyard. Dec 28, 2016