The Brickyard Bouldering

Can someone post a topo maybe? The descriptions leave something to be desired... (would be nice if the problems were grouped by boulder or all had a picture). Thanks dudes. May 11, 2010

Read and learn:

king-dino.com/rant.html

We are ALL responsible. Pick up your trash. Nuff' said. Sep 20, 2010

Unfortunately, the A-holes responsible probably don't read this site or king-dino.com. We should post the rant at the entrance to the Brickyard.

As a community we need to CONFRONT the people disrespecting this fantastic area.

I recently had a very disappointing interaction with someone unnecessarily chopping a tree and clearing a landing. This is only one instance of some of the crappy stuff I have seen.

Telling someone you don't approve is the only way to let them know their behavior is unacceptable. Jan 24, 2011

Please DO NOT DRAW on the rocks! The Charlotte's Web area was covered in awful sidewalk chalk "art". If whoever did this needs to express their feelings about "peace, love, climbing" do it by picking up trash not graffiting the place. I spent a good long time brushing off the drawings and I really don't enjoy giving up my climbing time to pick up after assholes so stop doing this. May 16, 2011

This seems to be happening at every area. Painted Cave, Brickyard, and Lizard's Mouth all have this bulls@!#. Really a bummer. Aug 31, 2011

Any camping in the area? In a perfect world the free and non-sketchy variety... Oct 28, 2011

Hey, was just wondering if anyone had any info on this problem here. I think it's on the Great Shark Hunt (40' traverse) boulder, but the only mentions of problems here in the guidebook (O11) were Lets Troll! and Chummin', each of which descriptions don't seem to match this problem. I was starting on the big lip, moving up passed crimps to the sloping rail and then using some balancy moves passed slopes to gain the top. Just curious as I haven't seen anyone else work it, but it seems to be a great problem. Brickyard rips.

Made this little video (sorry for crappy video quality) for this climb 'cause I had my camera and it's actually quite a fun climb. Was wondering if you went about it similarly?

• beta spoiler* vimeo.com/40433373

Feb 26, 2012

Re: Tim King's question

We scrubbed and climbed that route last year, calling it The Rats of Nimh, due to the rodent-nest sitting on the starting jug. Bernd thinks he may have done it sooner, but he can't quite remember. We call it V5 or V6, depending on the day. Feb 27, 2012

Just a heads up i'm aware the picture is bad Mar 20, 2012

Hey there, climbing community of SB.

For the second time in the last year, I've had to mitigate forest-fire potential at the Yard'. On Friday night some campers dug a fire-hole directly under Grotesque Old Woman, and when I arrived for a bouldering session on Saturday morning, there was a SMOKING PIT OF ASHES. It was a hot and dry day, with a steady breeze. Eek. Needless to say, my friends and I had to sacrifice most of our drinking water to douse the pile of embers. That's not how I like to end a session of rock-climbing.

If you see potential culprits cavorting with fire at The Brickyard—or anywhere else in the hills— you might choose from the following options:

A) take a deep breath, remember that many of this generation were raised by the show "Jackass", and strongly discourage behavior.
B) Do nothing

I vote for option "A". I have many friends who lost property and/or possessions in the Tea and Jesusita fire. They might not be so understanding.

Encourage good sense. Reap the benefits. Apr 22, 2012

Cleared out a few firepits the other day. One directly behind Charlotte's Web, the other under the start of Soot Patrol). Both blackened the rock pretty well, and the one near Charlottes still had some embers. Didn't get a chance to have a word with the people who left them (saw them on the way in) but I'll certainly do so if I see them around again... Jan 9, 2013

Thanks, Tim. Can we clone you? Cause almost nobody else seems to give a shit. Jan 10, 2013

Sure, though I can't guarantee you'll get only the positive characteristics, heh...

Really though, it's a lot of your little 'reminders' that have inspired some of the things I now do, such as always bringing a bag to pick up trash (makes it super easy to grab the little stuff, like cig butts, tape, cans etc) and just generally trying to leave the area nicer than you found it.

You want to climb here today, tomorrow and hopefully 20 years from now. Areas like this are rare, treat them with the respect they deserve. Jan 20, 2013

If looking for a highly pleasant bouldering experience at the Brickyard I would recommend this circuit:

Deep forest arete->Way Under->Way under traverse->Charlotte's Web->Yeti->Watch the Dog->Smooth Criminal->Your project or move areas and keep it going with whatever problems you can think of. For a bonus do it in under 5 minutes.

Also maybe this deserves a separate discussion but I thought if people felt so inclined it would be cool to pool together some good circuits of all difficulties for the different SB bouldering areas (think Font minus the color coding). Any interest? May 15, 2013

Great idea. I'll start mulling over my notes...

Okay, here's what I always did (back when I climbed there a lot): warm up on Yeti (3X), run up the hill and do Watch the Dog (3X), then Soot Patrol to the lip (3X), then finish by doing Akiba's Prison as many times as you can. If you fall off the latter problem before the end, get back on immediately and climb as far as you can.

This takes about 45 minutes to an hour if you keep moving. Think of it as a way to get tired quickly after work, if time is short. May 17, 2013

Yeah circuit bouldering is one of my favorite 'styles'

The left side circuit is a bit more moderate but great at well. Usually the Coffee boulder amphitheater, to South Street, then Extremist, Shoehorn and finish with Font Problem.

A good warm up circuit, with some highballs off the bat to get the mind and heart going, with a few good tough sloper problems thrown in. And then it clears off the left side of the Yard and dumps you back near the middle for the rest of your sesh. May 19, 2013

Nice, that was our idea too Andy...how to get a good workout in when you only have a little time after work. Doing many laps on Akiba's is definitely a good way to accomplish this.

Another one I used to try to do was a 4X4 consisting of Yeti, Sasquatch, Watch the Dog, and Soot Patrol to the lip. Not the most ideal since you have to do some running around but will get you pretty tired nonetheless and you can add harder variations of the problems if needed.


On a separate note does anyone know what's the deal with all the glossy chalk spots on the footholds of a lot of the problems at the yard (Yeti, Grotesque, Chralotte's...)? Many of these "holds" were loose flakes so I'm just a little confused. Was someone really bored and trying the lowest most awkward start possible for these problems? I believe they showed up last weekend sometime May 22, 2013

My friends and I visited the area last weekend, and had a blast bouldering around the Lizard's Mouth area. We got lost trying to find the Brickyard though, as we ended up trespassing through a gate and wandering down a path for about 10 minutes before giving up and turning around. Can someone explain to me how exactly you get to the Brickyard/Playground? Or just a general gist of where it is? Is it on the other side of the road as Lizard's Mouth? Very confused. Apr 14, 2014

If you're approaching Lizard's Mouth from the 154, then Brickyard is the first turnout when you take a right turn away from the ocean, into the mountains right after that big circular concrete platform thing. The trailhead is marked a bit inconspicuously by an old, rusting "no motor vehicles sign" on the left that isn't obvious from inside the car. Getting there by foot from the actual Lizard's Mouth is a bit more of a hike. Apr 15, 2014

Thanks for the help! Unfortunately I still can't manage to find it on google maps. Can someone drop a pin on the trailhead on google maps and link it? Sorry, your directions were very clear but I am just screwing it up for some reason. I can't find any concrete platform thing and I've been combing that road with street view for almost an hour. Probably just because I'm not familiar with the area. Apr 15, 2014

Jack: when you turn off the 154 on to West Camino Cielo, drive 3.4 miles. The pullouts are on the left and right. Walk down path towards ocean to boulders. Apr 16, 2014

This is a fantastic boulder field, especially in the V5-V9/10 range, with some legitimate classics.

Wonderful setting, pretty dense concentration of problems, easy access, steep gymnastic climbing under the lips, cruxy lip turns, and sloper-slab battling to the tops to finish. Rock quality is good to ok, but you'd have a good day just hanging out here and soaking in the scenery even without the climbing. May 2, 2016

I've added quite a few photos recently, hopefully that's cool with everyone. Aug 8, 2016

Dude. I'm psyched on more photos. Always helps. Aug 9, 2016

6423 W Camino Cielo, Santa Barbara, CA 93105

Hi my friend and I found at least four different trailheads that matched the description of a rusty sign and fence. This is the approximate street address of the trailhead which was so frustrating to find, so I hope this helps someone else! Apr 17, 2017

For all those new to The Brickyard, my friends and I created an online guide to help you navigate! It includes a map of the area and photos and descriptions for most of the high quality climbs here. Check it out and please leave comments docs.google.com/document/d/… Nov 29, 2018