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The Brickyard Bouldering
| Elevation: | 2,763 ft |
| GPS: | 34.498, -119.861 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 65,697 total · 458/month |
| Shared By: | The Gravel Diving Albatross on Nov 9, 2006 |
| Admins: | andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
Shady sandstone bouldering area in Santa Barbara. High density makes this a very enjoyable area. There are some great taller problems, and a few excellent traverses. The rock quality is very good for the most part, but the area is relatively small.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Brickyard
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos
26 Comments
More About The Brickyard
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Guidebooks (4)
Hollywood, CA
Sacramento, CA
Carpinteria, CA
king-dino.com/rant.html
We are ALL responsible. Pick up your trash. Nuff' said. Sep 20, 2010
As a community we need to CONFRONT the people disrespecting this fantastic area.
I recently had a very disappointing interaction with someone unnecessarily chopping a tree and clearing a landing. This is only one instance of some of the crappy stuff I have seen.
Telling someone you don't approve is the only way to let them know their behavior is unacceptable. Jan 24, 2011
West Coast
Chattanooga, TN
Hey, was just wondering if anyone had any info on this problem here. I think it's on the Great Shark Hunt (40' traverse) boulder, but the only mentions of problems here in the guidebook (O11) were Lets Troll! and Chummin', each of which descriptions don't seem to match this problem. I was starting on the big lip, moving up passed crimps to the sloping rail and then using some balancy moves passed slopes to gain the top. Just curious as I haven't seen anyone else work it, but it seems to be a great problem. Brickyard rips.
Made this little video (sorry for crappy video quality) for this climb 'cause I had my camera and it's actually quite a fun climb. Was wondering if you went about it similarly?
- beta spoiler* vimeo.com/40433373
Feb 26, 2012Carpinteria, CA
We scrubbed and climbed that route last year, calling it The Rats of Nimh, due to the rodent-nest sitting on the starting jug. Bernd thinks he may have done it sooner, but he can't quite remember. We call it V5 or V6, depending on the day. Feb 27, 2012
Just a heads up i'm aware the picture is bad Mar 20, 2012
Carpinteria, CA
For the second time in the last year, I've had to mitigate forest-fire potential at the Yard'. On Friday night some campers dug a fire-hole directly under Grotesque Old Woman, and when I arrived for a bouldering session on Saturday morning, there was a SMOKING PIT OF ASHES. It was a hot and dry day, with a steady breeze. Eek. Needless to say, my friends and I had to sacrifice most of our drinking water to douse the pile of embers. That's not how I like to end a session of rock-climbing.
If you see potential culprits cavorting with fire at The Brickyard—or anywhere else in the hills— you might choose from the following options:
A) take a deep breath, remember that many of this generation were raised by the show "Jackass", and strongly discourage behavior.
B) Do nothing
I vote for option "A". I have many friends who lost property and/or possessions in the Tea and Jesusita fire. They might not be so understanding.
Encourage good sense. Reap the benefits. Apr 22, 2012
Really though, it's a lot of your little 'reminders' that have inspired some of the things I now do, such as always bringing a bag to pick up trash (makes it super easy to grab the little stuff, like cig butts, tape, cans etc) and just generally trying to leave the area nicer than you found it.
You want to climb here today, tomorrow and hopefully 20 years from now. Areas like this are rare, treat them with the respect they deserve. Jan 20, 2013
Edmonton, AB
Deep forest arete->Way Under->Way under traverse->Charlotte's Web->Yeti->Watch the Dog->Smooth Criminal->Your project or move areas and keep it going with whatever problems you can think of. For a bonus do it in under 5 minutes.
Also maybe this deserves a separate discussion but I thought if people felt so inclined it would be cool to pool together some good circuits of all difficulties for the different SB bouldering areas (think Font minus the color coding). Any interest? May 15, 2013
Carpinteria, CA
Okay, here's what I always did (back when I climbed there a lot): warm up on Yeti (3X), run up the hill and do Watch the Dog (3X), then Soot Patrol to the lip (3X), then finish by doing Akiba's Prison as many times as you can. If you fall off the latter problem before the end, get back on immediately and climb as far as you can.
This takes about 45 minutes to an hour if you keep moving. Think of it as a way to get tired quickly after work, if time is short. May 17, 2013
The left side circuit is a bit more moderate but great at well. Usually the Coffee boulder amphitheater, to South Street, then Extremist, Shoehorn and finish with Font Problem.
A good warm up circuit, with some highballs off the bat to get the mind and heart going, with a few good tough sloper problems thrown in. And then it clears off the left side of the Yard and dumps you back near the middle for the rest of your sesh. May 19, 2013
Edmonton, AB
Another one I used to try to do was a 4X4 consisting of Yeti, Sasquatch, Watch the Dog, and Soot Patrol to the lip. Not the most ideal since you have to do some running around but will get you pretty tired nonetheless and you can add harder variations of the problems if needed.
On a separate note does anyone know what's the deal with all the glossy chalk spots on the footholds of a lot of the problems at the yard (Yeti, Grotesque, Chralotte's...)? Many of these "holds" were loose flakes so I'm just a little confused. Was someone really bored and trying the lowest most awkward start possible for these problems? I believe they showed up last weekend sometime May 22, 2013
Seattle, WA
Carpinteria, CA
Joshua Tree
Wonderful setting, pretty dense concentration of problems, easy access, steep gymnastic climbing under the lips, cruxy lip turns, and sloper-slab battling to the tops to finish. Rock quality is good to ok, but you'd have a good day just hanging out here and soaking in the scenery even without the climbing. May 2, 2016
Carpinteria, CA
Hi my friend and I found at least four different trailheads that matched the description of a rusty sign and fence. This is the approximate street address of the trailhead which was so frustrating to find, so I hope this helps someone else! Apr 17, 2017