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Routes in Dancing Outlaw Boulder

Type: Boulder
FA: tim battleson
Page Views: 1,099 total, 19/month
Shared By: Logan Walters on Feb 24, 2013
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Start dancing outlaw move up left to the crimps in the middle of the face. A couple of bumps off the slopers and a toe hook get you over the lip. Set a heel and grab some patina to top it out.

Location

From Dancing Outlaw, traverse left and go up.

Protection

pad

Photos

andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
Goshdarnit. Unbelievable problem. I tried it sporadically over the last couple of years, but I finally dedicated a couple of sessions this season, and finished it off. Good, brutal fight. I actually set up a "bump-machine" on my home wall to train for the consecutive lefthand bumps. It worked. Totally nerdy.

If you're stranded on a desert island, and you only have this problem to do for the rest of eternity, then you're in luck. Good job Tim and Logan! Sep 30, 2015
Sean Denny
Irvine
Sean Denny   Irvine
I remember trying this a few years back as well, but never got psyched enough (or strong enough) to finish. I had always assumed that Andy or someone else had already done it. Well, I'm stoked that it finally got done! Looking forward to a visit in the near future to give it a whirl.

Just to perpetuate the silliness, has anyone considered starting as for smooth criminal and traversing into this? Mar 2, 2013
This is fricking awesome. I tried this a bunch when we first developed this boulder and was far too weak to get enough lift to get over the lip. I thought that move seemed really hard. Good name too. Well done! Feb 25, 2013
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
Wait to go, guys! The first encounter I had with this problem was back in 2010, with my friend Jake Novotny. After scrubbing the holds one afternoon, we started the problem down and left of the bump-rails, with our left hand on that sharp pocket thingy. From there, we climbed straight up in to the "bump" moves. Beginning on Dancing Outlaw looks better. At the time, we thought the top was pretty hard. We suggested a potential grade of V9 (we never did it) back then, and it looks like we may have been right. Feb 25, 2013