Type: Boulder, 25 ft (8 m)
FA: Chris Leube
Page Views: 3,702 total · 30/month
Shared By: Sean Denny on Aug 23, 2010
Admins: andy patterson, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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Description

The first move is really hard. Once established on the nice edge at about 10 feet the difficulty eases somewhat. However, at this point the climbing changes from hard pulls on bad edges/pinches to balancy squeezing on mediocre slopers. As a result, I can easily imagine a crimp pulling hardman getting shut down at the top, and I know that a strong compression climber will hike the top but will have heaps of trouble with the bottom (this is me).
In any case, this is an absolutely awesome climb and a must do for any V7+ climber.
Just like Charlotte's Web, after the first 15 feet the climbing goes to no-fall VB.

Location

Located around to the right of Charlotte's Web on the same boulder. Start in the hand-sized hole for the left and a small crimp for the right. Go up.

Protection

A pad or two and a spot. Nice flat landing, but the balancy nature of the climb can result in pretty gnarly falls. Banks' guide mentions that this has been the site of several sprained/broken ankles.

Photos