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Routes in Ant Boulder

Ant Arete V1+ 5
Ant Traverse, The V5 6C
Arachnophobia V3+ 6A+
Army Ant V0- 4-
Aunt Bea V1 5
Chocolate Ant V0 4
Jason's Favorite V1 5
Piss Ant V0 4
Trails in the Kitchen V0 4
Type: Boulder, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,604 total, 18/month
Shared By: Joe Stern on Jun 30, 2010
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Start in the crack/seam of Jason's Favorite and traverse left, topping out on Aunt Bea (V4-5) or Flying Ant (> V5). Many possible variations.

I've only done it by traversing into the two obvious starting holes of Aunt Bea and going up from there. This seems like the most natural finish with the boulder's current conditions.

The traverse past the two holes gets quite thin very quickly. I suspect that continuing the traverse to finish on Flying Ant is harder than V5, but probably not by too much.

Location

A right to left traverse on the back side of the Ant Boulder.

Protection

Crash pad/none

Photos

One of my favorite problems at the Yard and my first 4/5 to boot. I finished up holes myself, and would say it goes at a 4. The movement is not incredibly hard, just takes a bit to work out the foot beta. May 8, 2014
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
This is so much harder now than when I first did it.

But I'm done whining...

Great traverse, and an absolute textbook on open-hand crimping. Oct 19, 2013
Joe Stern
Moab, Utah
 
Joe Stern   Moab, Utah
 
Thanks for the comments/info Sean and Steve. I've updated the description to reflect these perspectives.

I should also add that my enthusiasm for this problem comes from its uniquely long, crimpy, and fairly sustained nature. The Ant is a quality boulder, and the medium difficulty traverses (also see the newly added Arachnophobia ) are just as good as the easier slab problems. Sep 22, 2010
steve edwards
SLC, UT
steve edwards   SLC, UT
This is really jolting my memory but it used to be V3 and I'm not a bit surprised that it's harder. The left arete used to be the easiest top out. Of course the crux of the traverse was getting to the start of this top out. Heading up the "natural" way (I do see how you'd say that) used to be much easy. But that's the nature of this place. At least you never get too bored of the problems before they change, especially long crimpy ones like this. Sep 21, 2010
Sean Denny
Irvine
  V5
Sean Denny   Irvine
  V5
I never did figure out how to top it out via the left arete. It always seemed much more natural to start heading up once you hit the two holes. Several holds have broken since I first did this climb (~3 years ago), but I think it the only change is that one or two of the starting moves are a bit harder.
Great climb, excellent for building endurance and technique on crappy feet. Aug 18, 2010