Type: Boulder, 20 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,119 total · 37/month
Shared By: JSlack on Nov 16, 2009
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Start with the left hand on a good side-pull crimp and the right on a mediocre crimp. After the first ten feet or so the grade drops to VB-.


Crash Pads


Joseph Stover
Batesville, AR
Joseph Stover   Batesville, AR
I heard that the line used to be a bit more direct on the right side rather than starting on the left sidepull, but then a hold broke so the start moved to the left. It can still be done starting from the high crimps and moving straight up. Maybe a bit harder (V4? CW gets V4 in Edwards guide), but a fun variation nonetheless. Aug 24, 2011
Trevor V.
Santa Barbara, Ca
Trevor V.   Santa Barbara, Ca
Yeah Ed's says V4 but after trying it out today it is definitely V3 or easier. Seems like Yeti gives people a lot more trouble for the grade? Nov 10, 2011
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
Perhaps easier than V4. But keep in mind that everyone has a different style. Charlotte's Web demands some balance and reach that doesn't come naturally to some folks. I propose V3/4, with a caveat of subjectivity. Nov 14, 2011
Tom Shank
Santa Barbara, CA
Tom Shank   Santa Barbara, CA
How about an even V3+ if such a thing were to exist? It gets the caveat label on my menu. Oct 9, 2012
Alan Zhan
Seattle, WA
Alan Zhan   Seattle, WA
There seems to be many ways to do this one. Tried 3 ways to do it today.

One goes directly up from the two high crimps right of the right sidepull crimp (original way? crimpy), another goes up on the two opposing sidepulls and goes right (this is the way I've seen it done the most) with left hand on the sloper, and the last way I tried goes up on the same two opposing sidepulls, but instead of going right it goes directly up to a lefthand crimp sidepull thing so that your right hand ends up on the sloper. They all seem to be around the same difficulty, but I like the last way the most.

Aptly named problem Jan 21, 2014
Great line, one of my favorites in the Brickyard. As Alan Zhan mentions, the variation that mostly stays left and ends up with right hand on the sloper (see Bob Banks photo of Manny Varjak here) is my favorite. Fancy footwork to a tenuous high step lets you match the sloper and bust out a burly mantel straight off of it. If the original beta (or at least the main way its done currently, going left hand to sloper and right out to the pinch rail) is V3, this variation feels like V4 to me. Apr 12, 2014
Just sent this great route this past weekend!
The beginning is relatively straight forward and very fun/dynamic - I disagree with previous comments that it turns to "VB" after that. The slopers are terrible, very slick with years of chaulk and you cant see your foot placement while trying to pull over the edge. Definitely recommend solid number of spotters and pads! Sep 5, 2016
Gary Miamii
Los Angeles, CA
Gary Miamii   Los Angeles, CA
Hit this up for the 1st time this past weekend. Probably easier than a V3 for most once you get the few basic moves dialed in. Pretty fun climb all in all but nothing to brag home about. Plus side: has a great view from the tip top (as do most boulders up here). Sep 15, 2016