Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: Andy Patterson
Page Views: 453 total · 15/month
Shared By: andy patterson on Jun 27, 2016
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

Another punishing sideshow on the Santa Barbara Offwidth Bouldering Circuit. I'm really proud of this one.

Story:

It was hot. Very hot. Bernd and I couldn't muster the enthusiasm to climb anything with edges, so we decided to get creative. For the last five years I had been scoping out massive boulders that intersect, an occurrence which typically creates flaring hands-to-offwidth cracks of a gritty, desperate nature. On the backside of the Charlotte's Web boulder, just such a discovery languished in undiscovered glory. Some digging, scrubbing, taping, suffering, and lots of laughing resulted in a truly burly and surprisingly technical off width roof problem.

Beta:

Jugs and toe-jamming at the beginning, followed by hand-jams and side pulls. As you emerge from the cave, vicious arm-barring awaits. Once you figure out what to do with your feet, top the sucker out. Then vomit your lunch.

I have really no idea how hard to rate this thing, because it requires such a unique set of skills. I said V5/6, but that could be a sandbag. Or not. Go with friends and long sleeves. You'll need the company of both to enjoy this rig.

Location

Stand right in front of Yeti, facing the problem. Behind and to the right of you is a dark, dank hole. You start at the FAR back end of the cave, so that when you start climbing, your legs are literally in the sunlight of the back entrance. It'll make sense when you see it.

Protection

No pad! Really, it would just get in the way and encourage you to give up your efforts.

Photos

Jon Hartmann
Ojai, CA
  V5
Jon Hartmann   Ojai, CA
  V5
Unbelievably fun and hard. Finally got on this today and it took about 1/2 hr to figure out the crazy weird beta. Behind the head crimps and neck barring...who knew. Thanks Andy for the scrubbing and finding of this crack climbers dream.

Here's a video if you want to see it go down.

youtu.be/mH_4QjH8Kg8 Nov 12, 2017
Alan Zhan
Seattle, WA
Alan Zhan   Seattle, WA
imgur.com/a/sa54Kss Jul 28, 2018
Jon Hartmann
Ojai, CA
  V5
Jon Hartmann   Ojai, CA
  V5
Nice Alan! Thanks! Lol Jul 29, 2018
Alan Zhan
Seattle, WA
Alan Zhan   Seattle, WA
thanks for the vid, I'm stoked Jul 29, 2018