Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: Andy Patterson
Page Views: 559 total · 15/month
Shared By: andy patterson on Jun 27, 2016
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Another punishing sideshow on the Santa Barbara Offwidth Bouldering Circuit. I'm really proud of this one.


It was hot. Very hot. Bernd and I couldn't muster the enthusiasm to climb anything with edges, so we decided to get creative. For the last five years I had been scoping out massive boulders that intersect, an occurrence which typically creates flaring hands-to-offwidth cracks of a gritty, desperate nature. On the backside of the Charlotte's Web boulder, just such a discovery languished in undiscovered glory. Some digging, scrubbing, taping, suffering, and lots of laughing resulted in a truly burly and surprisingly technical off width roof problem.


Jugs and toe-jamming at the beginning, followed by hand-jams and side pulls. As you emerge from the cave, vicious arm-barring awaits. Once you figure out what to do with your feet, top the sucker out. Then vomit your lunch.

I have really no idea how hard to rate this thing, because it requires such a unique set of skills. I said V5/6, but that could be a sandbag. Or not. Go with friends and long sleeves. You'll need the company of both to enjoy this rig.


Stand right in front of Yeti, facing the problem. Behind and to the right of you is a dark, dank hole. You start at the FAR back end of the cave, so that when you start climbing, your legs are literally in the sunlight of the back entrance. It'll make sense when you see it.


No pad! Really, it would just get in the way and encourage you to give up your efforts.