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Charlotte's Web

V3, Boulder, 20 ft (6 m),  Avg: 3.2 from 168 votes
FA: unknown
California > Central Coast > Santa Barbara > Santa Barbara… > Brickyard > Charlotte's Web Area

Description

Start with the left hand on a good side-pull crimp and the right on a mediocre crimp. After the first ten feet or so the grade drops to VB-.

Protection

Crash Pads

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Manny Varjak starting up 'Charlotte's Web'.
[Hide Photo] Manny Varjak starting up 'Charlotte's Web'.
The second hold for the right hand after the breakage.
[Hide Photo] The second hold for the right hand after the breakage.
Slopes
[Hide Photo] Slopes
Jake on Charlotte
[Hide Photo] Jake on Charlotte
Manny hits the slopers on one of the finest moderates in town.
[Hide Photo] Manny hits the slopers on one of the finest moderates in town.
Charlotte's Web starts using crimps near head-level, goes up and a little bit right over the bulge, then up the easy slab.
[Hide Photo] Charlotte's Web starts using crimps near head-level, goes up and a little bit right over the bulge, then up the easy slab.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Joseph Stover
Batesville, AR
[Hide Comment] I heard that the line used to be a bit more direct on the right side rather than starting on the left sidepull, but then a hold broke so the start moved to the left. It can still be done starting from the high crimps and moving straight up. Maybe a bit harder (V4? CW gets V4 in Edwards guide), but a fun variation nonetheless. Aug 24, 2011
Trevor V.
Santa Barbara, Ca
 
[Hide Comment] Yeah Ed's says V4 but after trying it out today it is definitely V3 or easier. Seems like Yeti gives people a lot more trouble for the grade? Nov 10, 2011
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Perhaps easier than V4. But keep in mind that everyone has a different style. Charlotte's Web demands some balance and reach that doesn't come naturally to some folks. I propose V3/4, with a caveat of subjectivity. Nov 14, 2011
Tom Shank
Santa Barbara, CA
 
[Hide Comment] How about an even V3+ if such a thing were to exist? It gets the caveat label on my menu. Oct 9, 2012
Alan Zhan
Seattle, WA
 
[Hide Comment] There seems to be many ways to do this one. Tried 3 ways to do it today.

One goes directly up from the two high crimps right of the right sidepull crimp (original way? crimpy), another goes up on the two opposing sidepulls and goes right (this is the way I've seen it done the most) with left hand on the sloper, and the last way I tried goes up on the same two opposing sidepulls, but instead of going right it goes directly up to a lefthand crimp sidepull thing so that your right hand ends up on the sloper. They all seem to be around the same difficulty, but I like the last way the most.

Aptly named problem Jan 21, 2014
[Hide Comment] Great line, one of my favorites in the Brickyard. As Alan Zhan mentions, the variation that mostly stays left and ends up with right hand on the sloper (see Bob Banks photo of Manny Varjak here) is my favorite. Fancy footwork to a tenuous high step lets you match the sloper and bust out a burly mantel straight off of it. If the original beta (or at least the main way its done currently, going left hand to sloper and right out to the pinch rail) is V3, this variation feels like V4 to me. Apr 12, 2014
Michael Daignault
Santa Monica, CA
[Hide Comment] Just sent this great route this past weekend!
The beginning is relatively straight forward and very fun/dynamic - I disagree with previous comments that it turns to "VB" after that. The slopers are terrible, very slick with years of chaulk and you cant see your foot placement while trying to pull over the edge. Definitely recommend solid number of spotters and pads! Sep 5, 2016
Mister Miamii
Joshua Tree, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Hit this up for the 1st time this past weekend. Probably easier than a V3 for most once you get the few basic moves dialed in. Pretty fun climb all in all but nothing to brag home about. Plus side: has a great view from the tip top (as do most boulders up here). Sep 15, 2016
Ashley Swenson
Pasadena, CA
kyle Climbs
Ventura CA
[Hide Comment] Super fun V3. Took me a lot longer than I thought it would too with a pretty solid fall on it. I threw together a video on my attempts and the send haha

youtu.be/Z5V7UJxS2O0 Jun 15, 2020
[Hide Comment] Short person's beta
youtube.com/watch?v=yveeBUe… Jan 15, 2021
Lincoln S
Goleta
  V3-4
[Hide Comment] brush your F#$* three foot long ticks, or better yet don't make them at all! jesus this boulder is not a canvas for you to express yourself artistically Feb 22, 2021
Justin Roth
Ventura, CA
[Hide Comment] Anyone ever try to link this into second half of Grotesque Old Woman? Ridiculous, I know… Jun 22, 2021
JSlack
  V3
[Hide Comment] Justin, this was always one of my favorite lines on the boulder. Clocks in around V6 and has some cool crimpy moves! Jun 23, 2021
[Hide Comment] 18 September 2022 found a large chunk of the second right hand crimp at the base of the climb. Guessing someone climbed too soon after the rain two weeks ago. Climb still goes with the pinch. Whoever did it you know who you are... Please give sandstone time to dry after it rains. Sep 19, 2022
Spencer McLean
Santa Barbara
[Hide Comment] So sad about that crimp :( super frustrating. don’t climb after it rains! Sep 20, 2022