Type: Boulder, 20 ft (6 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,021 total · 38/month
Shared By: Rob Riggleman on Nov 28, 2009
Admins: andy patterson, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

On the steep side of the boulder, Dancing Outlaw goes up the left side of the rib using a couple of good slopers, crimps, and an incut. Muscle your way into the powerful undercling and up to the lip. Move left on a couple of poor slopers to the arete, and top out just left of the arete.

One word of caution: on the hueco undercling, don't crank on the lip of the hueco; it flexes a lot and there are other spots that are just as good.

In many ways this is THE classic climb at the Brickyard - is there a move on this problem that isn't awesome?

Location

If you're facing to the ocean, this problem is on the right half of the Brickyard on the north side of a boulder. It is just to the left of Smooth Criminal.

Protection

Pads and a spotter on the rock below the problem.

Photos