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Routes in Yeti Boulder

Sasquatch V5 6C
Yeti V4 6B
Yeti Direct V7 7A+
Yowie Project, The V7-8 7B
Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 100 total, 2/month
Shared By: Will Barnes on Oct 19, 2013
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


1 Opinions

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Description

An eliminate that tops out right smack dab in the middle of the boulder. The Yowie is a problem that I tried a lot but never quite had the temps (or perhaps the cojones) necessary to send.

Start as for Yeti (or lower) but when you reach the hueco right in the middle of the wall, rather than blast out left to the first jug on Yeti blast straight up to a cool sloper with a patina thumb catch. There are a couple sequences that will take you up to the slopey lip (both of which are much more technical than you'd expect, then use some fancy footwork and sloper magic to pull over the top. The upper jugs on Yeti and Sasquatch are off.

My guess is around V7 but depending on how tough the last move is it could be harder. Would warrant 4 stars if it wasn't an eliminate but either way the moves are rad and the problem proud.

Location

Start as for Yeti but head straight up after the hueco rather than out left.

Protection

Pad (or 3)

Photos

Will Barnes
Edmonton, AB
 
Will Barnes   Edmonton, AB
 
That would be sweet but the dyno takes you up to the yeti jugs which I was trying to avoid. A middle start could probably be contrived that begins between the traditional yeti start and yeti direct for a more straight up line if you were so inclined...someone should throw in a sit start while they're at it. Oct 28, 2013
steve edwards
SLC, UT
steve edwards   SLC, UT
Clearly it needs to get done with the dyno start for a pure direct line. I would think this is a good eliminate. Oct 26, 2013
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
Bernd and I did the "dyno" start to the Yeti (also known as Yeti-direct). Different problem altogether, and clocks in around V7, depending on current state of erosion. The eliminate you describe here sounds like something I did a long time ago, but I think I might have used one of the big holds on Yeti. I can't remember. Whatever I did, it seemed harder than Yeti.

It's an eliminate, so either way you're mincing moves.

I think Bernd would say the same thing. Oct 19, 2013
Will Barnes
Edmonton, AB
 
Will Barnes   Edmonton, AB
 
I think Andy might have mentioned to me a while back that him and Bernd did this at some point in the past. Any input Andy? Oct 19, 2013