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Routes in Gibraltar Rock

Any Minute Now T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Broken Mirror S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Crank Start S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Inner Tube Toes TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jabberwocky S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Klingon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Ladder, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mid-Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Nose, The T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sea of Holes T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Self Reflection T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Shard, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
T-Crack T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Variation of the Mid-face T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 10,365 total, 72/month
Shared By: EricT on Feb 1, 2006
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Good jams to a angry mantel. Pro is at one's feet for the mantel, making it a spicy lead. Approach from above, nothing to be gained by scrambling around the base. Once on top, walk across the top to the west and then down a few feet to a ledge.

Mid way down on the east side is a nice ledge for abusing the climber by throwing stones or taking pictures.

Protection

Up and right of the route are a pair of bolts. For toproping, it is useful to have a long static line to get the anchor over the edge (roughly 25 feet away). Alternatively, a gear anchor can be set at the top of the climb.
Lost a Green/Yellow Alien Hybrid up there. Would happily reward someone for its safe return. Nov 24, 2015
Richard Shore
  5.10c
Richard Shore  
  5.10c
I finally led this rig yesterday, and it is now my favorite in SB. I will do it over and over again. 2X cams from 0.5-2 will pretty much stitch this baby up. Smaller pieces for your belayer's anchor at the base - I used pink, red, and brown tricams. May 20, 2011
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
  5.10+
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
  5.10+
I once fell off the mantel while leading the route. While I don't recommend falling, the plummet is actually quite clean. I did, however, have a helmet, which was nice because I landed upside down, almost clocking my belayer. Overall, the fall amounted to about 15-20 ft. Spicy, indeed. Use discretion, know your limits, and remember that climbers in the 60s and 70s were friggin studs. Just because they led this thing with tennies and chocks doesn't mean that you can style it with cams and sticky rubber. That being said, T-crack might be my favorite lead in the area. Apr 7, 2007